Carrier Oils & Ingredients for the Skin and Cosmetic Making

For expanded explanations and properties of Carrier Oils and Infused and Macerated Oils, please look at the Practical Potions Introductory Course for the lesson on Carrier Oils.https://www.northernstarcourses.com/lesson/a-carrier-oils-the-alchemy-of-dilution-and-enhancement/

The following lesson focuses on how carrier oils, infused oils, and plant butter can be used in skincare. It also includes information on the vitamins and fatty acids in carrier oils and some natural Cosmetic ingredients.

Overview-

First, please listen to your animated guide as she gives you an orientation to this lesson.
Make your way to the Ship’s Blending Lab for this class. Grab your beverage, and bring your notebook and laptop. You can get comfy and read this lesson thoroughly when you get here.

There are a few videos, but much of the chapter is in written form. So get comfy! To become more familiar with any carrier oils mentioned, try feeling, smelling, and using them.

*Note- This chapter is vast and has many components. Take your time with it, as it is a mini course.

Carrier Oil, Introduction

This is a vital section, as carrier oils are important healers. When mixed with essential oils, they can provide a very synergistic medium.

Carrier oils are fatty, fixed oils from seeds, nuts, and other vegetative materials. They contain combinations of saturated, monounsaturated, and polyunsaturated fatty acids. Carrier oils are an excellent medium to dilute essential oils, making them safer for skin use. As a bonus, essential oils are often absorbed better in a carrier base.

There are two downsides to using carrier oils in your blends.

1-Most carrier oils, except coconut MCT or FCO, Jojoba, Camellia, and meadowfoam, go rancid faster than essential oils. This means your blend must be used more quickly and has a shorter shelf life than neat essential oil blends.

2. Although carrier oils can radically enhance blends, the chance of someone being sensitive or allergic to that blend increases as soon as more components are added to a product.

Infused or macerated oils– are also included with the carrier oils. These vegetable oils infused with fresh or recently dried plant materials provide additional health benefits. Calendula, dandelion, arnica and Saint John’s Wort are examples of infused oils.

A skilled aromatherapist who learns the properties of essential oils and carrier oils can also maximize the function of her blend by understanding the properties of both mediums. Using the suitable carrier and essential oil together creates a synergistic mixture.
Use cold-pressed and organic oils when you can. To prolong carrier oil’s shelf life, keep the blend refrigerated or, at minimum, store it in a cool place, in a dark container, with minimum headspace.

If a carrier oil smells rancid, do not use it. Individuals may have allergies to almost anything. Nut allergies are common. Do not use nut oil (e.g. almond or peanut) on anyone with such allergies.

Before creating a blend, could you talk to your clients and have them disclose their sensitivities? Individuals may have allergies to almost anything, including nuts. Because of reactions, be particularly careful with nut carriers (e.g., almonds or peanuts).

The skin is the largest organ of our body. Nothing should be applied to the skin that is not pure enough to be eaten. Pesticides, herbicides and other contaminants, such as heavy metals, are attracted to fats and bio-accumulate. Use as few products as possible that contain such toxins.

Massage Blend- Healing Touch

The standard ratio for a body mix for a healthy, non-allergenic adult- is 1-5% essential oils with 95-99.5% carrier oil.

Use dilute amounts of essential oil, 0.1-1.0%, on the face or delicate skin. For children, use more subtle amounts than suggested above (and none for children under three).

Carrier oils are usually fine for infants if they are not allergic or sensitive to the substance. Also, be sure the carrier has not been manufactured in a facility that produces peanut or other nut oils if an allergy to these exists.

Carrier Oils for Skin, Video-

New Carrier Oils Video-Animated

Vitamins,  Fatty Acids and Antioxidants in Carrier Oils-Video

Laurie will discuss Vitamins, Fatty Acids and Antioxidants in Carrier oils from research adapted from Anstey, A. V. (2002). Systemic photoprotection with α-tocopherol (vitamin E) and β-carotene. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, 27(3), 170-176.

Some Vitamins, Antioxidants and Fatty Acids in Carrier Oils

Vitamins

CARRIER OILS

Acai Oil– (Euterpe oleracea seed)-

Acai comes from a seed from the berry of a plant native to the Amazon rainforest. It is high in oleic, palmitic fatty acids and linoleic acids. It also contains phenolic compounds, polyphenols, vanillic acid, ferulic acid, and numerous procyanidins. You may have eaten acai berries, but the cold-pressed seed is also excellent in anti-aging blends.

It is a green oil that can degrade quickly with heat or even while in storage. This oil is known for its potent antioxidant properties due to its rich content of vitamins A, C, and E, which help fight free radicals and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

Acai oil is highly moisturizing and hydrating because of its high levels of essential fatty acids, which help lock in moisture and keep the skin and hair hydrated. Additionally, it possesses anti-inflammatory properties, containing compounds that soothe irritated skin and reduce redness. It penetrates the skin well. It is best for mature or sensitive skin.

The National Institute for Health (NIH) studied the effect of Acai on healing skin wounds and found that levels of anti-oxidants protect the skin from environmental aggressors and help with skin regeneration.

Almond Kernel (Prunus dulcis)-

A pale yellow-coloured carrier oil is suitable for skin types ranging from standard to dry and soothing to delicate skin.

Almond oil contains oleic acid, linolenic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid. It may also help people with dry eczema and psoriasis. It may also benefit wrinkled and dehydrated skin. Almond oil may relieve skin irritation and itchy and inflamed skin. It spreads quickly and penetrates the skin well. It forms a protective layer on the skin to retain moisture. Could you watch for allergies? A small amount applied to dark circles under the eyes before bedtime may reduce swelling and coloration.

https://www.medscape.com/s/viewarticle/996314?ecd=WNL_trdalrt_pos1_ous_230919_etid5867598&uac=196592FG&impID=5867598#vp_2

Summary of Research on Almond Oil and Wound Healing
Recent studies have shown that topical almond oil can significantly benefit skin health. In 2020, Borzou et al. conducted a clinical trial on 108 patients, revealing that almond oil significantly reduced the incidence of pressure injuries compared to liquid paraffin and standard care, with incidence rates of 5.6%, 13.9%, and 25.1%, respectively. Similarly, Caglar et al.’s study on preterm infants demonstrated that almond oil and sunflower seed oil improved stratum corneum hydration compared to controls.

Almond oil has also been found effective in treating eczema and hand dermatitis. Simon et al. (2018) reported that emollients containing refined almond oil and lactic acid significantly reduced itching severity and improved skin moisture in patients with xerotic eczema. Additionally, Zeichner et al. found that a moisturizer with sweet almond oil and colloidal oatmeal was effective for treating moderate-to-severe hand dermatitis.

For striae gravidarum, Hajhashemi et al. (2018) showed that sweet almond oil and aloe vera gel decreased erythema and pruritus, preventing the expansion of striae. A non-randomized study by Tashan and Kafkasli indicated that massage with bitter almond oil could reduce the visibility of existing striae and prevent new ones. These findings support the traditional dermatologic uses of almond oil, though further research is needed.

This article originally appeared on MDedge.com, part of the Medscape Professional Network.

Summary of Almonds and Almond Oil for Skincare
Almonds and almond oil, derived from the almond tree (Oleum amygdalae) native to Iran and the Levant, are known for their anti-inflammatory, liver-protective, and immunity-boosting properties. Rich in phenols, polyphenols, fatty acids, and vitamin E, these seeds possess strong antioxidant effects and significantly impact serum lipids. Almond oil also has emollient properties that improve complexion and skin tone, and it has been shown to reduce UVB-induced photoaging in laboratory and animal studies.

Traditionally, almond oil has been used in Chinese, Ayurvedic, and Greco-Persian medicine to treat skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis. Recent research supports these uses, highlighting their benefits for various dermatological applications.

Almond oil is used to make creams, lotions, massage oils, or, on its own, as a carrier for essential oils.

Please don’t use this oil for those with nut allergies.

Aloe Vera (Aloe vera) Oil and Gel–

Infused with other carriers, aloe vera oil soothes inflamed, sunburned and radiation-burned skin. Aloe vera gel is made from the inner part of the plant. Aloe Vera contains polysaccharides comprised of glucose and mannose. Aloe vera oil also contains lignin, sterols (such as lupeol and campesterol), and fatty acids (including linoleic acid and palmitic acid).

The oil is typically light yellow and has a lightweight, non-greasy texture, making it easy to absorb into the skin without leaving a heavy residue. Aloe Vera oil is renowned for its soothing and healing properties because of its high concentration of bioactive compounds. These compounds help calm irritated skin and promote healing. It is also highly moisturizing and hydrating, helping to retain skin moisture and improve overall skin health.

Additionally, aloe vera oil has anti-inflammatory properties, which can reduce swelling and redness in the skin. Dry eczema and psoriasis patches respond well to this oil, as do skin wounds, scrapes and bruises. Insect bites, chickenpox, boils, ringworm, and poison ivy rashes are favourably relieved. Sore, cracked fingers and toes are helped.

CAUTION- avoid it with acne. Rosemary Gladstar pg. 119 also states that Aloe vera gel should never be used on staph infection. It can lock in the infection and make it worse! Aloe vera may help reduce scar tissue or the formation of keloid tissue after surgery. The leaf contains some natural latex, which about 1% of people are allergic to. It often gets into the oil or gel in minute amounts.

Please use a preservative when creating a product with this plant since it is primarily water-based and can become contaminated quickly.

The Impact of Aloe Vera Oil on Skin Moisture and Healing

Results demonstrated a significant increase in skin hydration and a noticeable acceleration in healing minor cuts and abrasions. The oil’s bioactive compounds and fatty acids were crucial in enhancing the skin’s moisture retention and promoting faster wound healing. Incorporating Aloe Vera oil into a skincare routine can help maintain hydrated skin and accelerate the healing of minor skin injuries.
Conclusion: Aloe Vera oil significantly improves skin hydration and accelerates wound healing, making it beneficial for daily skincare and minor injury treatment.
Citation: Hekmatpou, D., Mehrabi, F., Rahzani, K., & Aminiyan, A. (2019). “The Effect of Aloe Vera Clinical Trials on Prevention and Healing of Skin Wound: A Systematic Review.” Iranian Journal of Medical Sciences, 44, 1-9. DOI: 10.30476/IJMS.2019.40612.

Apricot Kernel (Prunus armeniaca)–

Rich and nourishing. Apricot Kernel carrier oil is good for dry and sensitive skin.

It contains oleic acid, linoleic acid, vitamin e, and physosterols and polyphenols. It is light, almost odourless, but more moisturizing than almond oil. Apricot kernel oil is helpful for mature, sensitive, inflamed skin, as it may have some photo protective effects and aid skin elasticity and tone. Apricot Kernel oil is excellent for dry, parched skin or dry and cracked areas of the body, such as foot heels.

It is also a lovely ingredient for hair and a component of hair products.

The shells have historically been cracked and used in skin exfoliants, but anything as hard as a shell may also scratch the skin surface.

Apricot Kernel Oil’s Effect on Hair Conditioning and Scalp Health

The oil’s fatty acids and vitamins reduce scalp irritation and dandruff and condition the hair, making it smoother and more manageable.
Conclusion: Apricot kernel oil enhances hair softness and manageability while improving scalp health, making it a valuable ingredient for hair care products focused on conditioning and scalp treatment.
Citation: (Kim & Moon, 2021).

Argan (Argania spinosa)-

Argan oil primarily contains oleic acid (Omega-9 fatty acid), linoleic acid (Omega-6 fatty acid), and palmitic acid. This oil is known for its moisturizing properties, which help to keep the skin hydrated and soft. It also has anti-aging benefits due to its high content of vitamin E and antioxidants, which protect the skin from free radical damage and improve elasticity.

Additionally, argan oil has anti-inflammatory properties, which can help reduce skin redness and irritation. The oil is typically pale to golden yellow and has a medium-weight, non-greasy texture that is quickly absorbed by the skin.

Argan oil is traditionally used for juvenile acne, rheumatism, and burn healing. It is also used for wrinkled, scaly, and dry skin. It is rich and can be used in formulas up to 20%. Women with more mature or dehydrated skin may use higher percentages. Ryman, pg. 9, says it is antiseptic, accelerates the healing of scar tissue, and rejuvenates the skin.

Argan Oil can also nourish the hair, making it shiny and healthy-looking. The oil harvested in spring has a lighter scent. Argan oil harvested in the fall and winter possesses a more noticeable scent. Absorption: Absorbs into skin at an average speed, leaving a slight oily feeling. Argan oil should be used within six months. It increases skin elasticity.

The Impact of Argan Oil on Skin Hydration and Elasticity
A study found that the oil’s high content of oleic and linoleic acids, along with vitamin E, enhanced the skin barrier and promoted collagen production.
Conclusion: Argan oil significantly improves skin hydration and elasticity, making it excellent for anti-aging and moisture maintenance.
Citation: Tichota, D. M., Silva, A. C., Sousa Lobo, J. S., & Amaral, M. H. (2014). Design, characterization, and clinical evaluation of argan oil nanostructured lipid carriers to improve skin hydration. International Journal of Nanomedicine, 9, 3855-3864.

Avocado Fruit (Persea americana)-

Avocado oil primarily contains oleic acid (an omega-9 fatty acid), linoleic acid (an omega-6 fatty acid), and palmitic acid. It is rich in vitamins A, D, and E, antioxidants that help protect the skin from free radical damage and promote skin health. Additionally, avocado oil has anti-inflammatory properties that help soothe and calm irritated skin. The oil is typically green to dark green and has a thick, greasy texture that deeply penetrates the skin. Therefore, it is renowned for its deep moisturizing properties, effectively keeping the skin hydrated and soft.

This oil is good for dry, mature, and dehydrated skin that lacks tone and firmness. It may benefit those with sensitive skin and has a slight sunscreen effect. Avocado oil is prized in cosmetics for its high penetration and absorption. Combine avocado oil with castor oil for age spots. Avocado Oil may be added to blends to enrich their protein and vitamin content. It is used predominantly by manufacturers (particularly great in soaps, lotions, and creams).

Absorption: Avocado Carrier Oil may leave a sticky, waxy feel if applied topically to large areas of skin. Ryman, pg. 9, recommends it for psoriasis or eczema. It is excellent for aging skin. It is best if the oil is organic, cold-pressed, extra virgin, and unrefined.

Baobab Oil – (Adansonia Digitata Seed)

Baobab oil primarily contains oleic acid (Omega-9 fatty acid), linoleic acid (Omega-6 fatty acid), and palmitic acid. Baobab seed oil is packed with essential fatty acids, including linoleic, oleic, palmitic, alpha-linolenic, and stearic acids and mono- and polyunsaturated fats. It also contains carotenoids and vitamin D. Baobab seed oil is notably rich in phytosterols, making up 4% of the oil—one of the highest ratios in carrier oils.

Extracted through cold pressing from the seeds of the melon-shaped fruit of the giant baobab tree indigenous to South Africa, this oil comes from a tree celebrated for its longevity, sometimes up to 5,000 years, and is often referred to as the Tree of Life. This remarkable tree stores substantial quantities of water.

This oil is known for its exceptional moisturizing properties, effectively keeping the skin hydrated and smooth. It is rich in vitamins A, D, E, and F, which provide antioxidant benefits that help protect the skin from free radical damage and promote skin regeneration. Baobab oil has anti-inflammatory properties that help soothe and calm irritated or inflamed skin. The oil is typically golden yellow and has a rich, silky texture that absorbs well without leaving a greasy residue.

This oil is ideal for treating aging, irritated, or dry and cracked skin, offering soothing, moisturizing, and softening benefits while improving skin elasticity and providing anti-inflammatory properties. It’s particularly effective for healing cracked, excessively sun-exposed skin. Additionally, baobab oil can help manage acne and skin imperfections and is beneficial for rough areas on elbows, knees, hands, and feet. Rich in omega-3, it provides soothing, reparative, and antioxidant benefits, making it suitable for mature and aging skin and promoting skin tissue regeneration. Baobab oil is also reputed to enhance hair’s strength and shine.

Nursing mothers are advised to refrain from using this oil, intended solely for external use.

The Effects of Baobab Oil on Skin Hydration and Elasticity
Results showed a significant improvement in skin hydration and elasticity. The oil’s high content of oleic and linoleic acids, along with vitamins A, D, and E, enhanced the skin barrier function and promoted collagen production.
Conclusion: Baobab oil significantly improves skin hydration and elasticity, making it an excellent addition to skincare routines that aim to maintain moisture and reduce signs of aging.
Citation: Komane, B., Vermaak, I., Kamatou, G., Summers, B., & Viljoen, A. (2017). Beauty in Baobab: a pilot study of the safety and efficacy of Adansonia digitata seed oil. Revista Brasileira de Farmacognosia, 27(1), 1-8.

Bakuchiol-Cullen coryfolium or Psoralea corylifolia.

Babchi seeds are sourced from the plant Psoralea corylifolia. Bakuchiol is the natural compound extracted from the seeds and leaves of this plant. It is primarily known for its anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. Chemically, bakuchiol itself mimics the effects of retinol without causing the irritation often associated with retinoids. Bakuchiol is highly effective in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improving skin firmness and elasticity, and evening out skin tone. The oil is typically light yellow to pale amber and has a medium-weight, non-greasy texture that is easily absorbed by the skin.

This extract is particularly beneficial for individuals with sensitive skin. Use bakuchiol in concentrations no higher than 10% because of its potential photosensitizing effects when used in higher amounts. Marketed under Sytenol A, bakuchiol is noted for its ability to diminish the visibility of fine lines and wrinkles and its potential to stimulate collagen synthesis. It is important to note that bakuchiol is sensitive to heat.

Comparative Study of Bakuchiol and Retinol for Anti-Aging Benefits
A study compared the anti-aging effects of bakuchiol and retinol involving 44 participants who applied either bakuchiol 0.5% cream or retinol 0.5% cream twice daily for 12 weeks. Results showed that bakuchiol was as effective as retinol in reducing fine lines and wrinkles and improving skin elasticity and firmness, with less irritation and redness. Conclusion: Bakuchiol is as effective as retinol in reducing signs of aging while causing less irritation, making it a suitable alternative for sensitive skin. Citation: Dhaliwal, S., Rybak, I., Ellis, S. R., & Kaminer, M. S. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double-masked assessment of bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoaging. British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2), 289-296.

Black Cumin Seed Oil (Nigella Sativa Seed)

Its fatty acid composition includes linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, trans-anethole, and myristic acid, alongside compounds like thymoquinone and thymol. These constituents make the oil beneficial for treating inflammation and acne-prone skin. Nigella carrier oil contains up to 2.5% essential oil, enhancing its shelf life and imparting a distinctive scent.

The oil is typically dark amber and has a light to medium-weight texture that absorbs well into the skin without leaving a greasy residue. This cold-pressed carrier oil, derived from black cumin seeds, is light brown and has a strong scent. It is lightweight, non-greasy, and has a medium to fast absorption rate when applied to the skin. Using it at concentrations of up to 20% in blends is recommended.

Known by various names, including black seed, nigella, or black caraway, black cumin seed oil is recognized for its potent antioxidant properties and potential to combat infections. It has a longstanding history of use in Ayurvedic medicine.

Its antibacterial properties make it highly effective in soothing irritated skin, reducing redness, and combating acne. Additionally, black cumin seed oil helps to improve skin hydration and elasticity, making it beneficial for anti-aging skincare.

It may also be helpful for specific skin allergies. Clinical research has shown promising results in using 2% black cumin seed oil to treat atopic dermatitis. Furthermore, nigellone, found in nigella, is known for its antihistamine effects, potentially aiding hair loss treatments for conditions like androgenic alopecia and alopecia areata. Nigellone’s antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties contribute to improved hair and scalp health by preventing dandruff and dryness.

In animal research, Croatian scientists discovered that thymoquinone and thymohydroquinone in nigella oil could reduce tumour cells by 52%. Recent studies have indicated that thymoquinone can induce apoptosis in leukemia, breast cancer, and brain tumour cells.

Moreover, research at the Sidney Kimmel Cancer Center at Jefferson Health suggests that black cumin seeds may play a role in treating and preventing pancreatic cancer, mainly due to their high anti-inflammatory attributes (Reid – at Missis Sippilead, 2021). Originally from South Asia, the plant is now cultivated worldwide for its myriad benefits, although some individuals may experience intolerance, manifesting as a rash.

Efficacy of Black Cumin Seed Oil in Treating Acne Vulgaris
Black cumin seed oil significantly reduces acne lesions and improves skin texture. The oil’s antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects, attributed to thymoquinone and linoleic acid, helped reduce acne severity.
Conclusion: Black cumin seed oil significantly reduces acne lesions and improves skin texture, making it a valuable addition to acne treatment regimens.
Citation: Soleymani, S., Zargaran, A., Farzaei, M., Iranpanah, A., Heydarpour, F., Najafi, F., & Rahimi, R. (2020). The effect of a hydrogel made by Nigella sativa L. on acne vulgaris: A randomized double‐blind clinical trial. Phytotherapy Research, 34, 3052-3062.

Blueberry Seed Oil (Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed)

Many are familiar with blueberry’s health benefits, but their seeds are now harnessed for cosmetic applications. The extraction process often involves cold pressing, sometimes using nitrogen to reduce oxidation. The resulting oil is light green to yellow in hue and features a soft, thin, and dry texture. Blueberry seed oil should be used up to 40% in formulations.

Blueberry seed oil primarily contains linoleic acid (omega-6 fatty acid), alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3 fatty acid), and oleic acid (omega-9 fatty acid). Thanks to its high content of vitamin E and other phytochemicals, this oil is celebrated for its potent antioxidant properties. It is highly effective in protecting the skin against free radical damage, reducing signs of aging, and improving skin elasticity and firmness.

Additionally, blueberry seed oil is known for its anti-inflammatory properties, which help to calm and soothe irritated skin. Its light, non-greasy texture is quickly absorbed by the skin.

Blueberry seed oil offers calming, soothing, protective, and moisturizing benefits for skin and hair. It is advantageous for all skin types, especially oily or mature skin. Its dry, thin viscosity makes it an excellent choice for sensitive, oily skin types, skin with enlarged pores, and acne-prone skin. The oil is celebrated for its ability to promote the repair of damaged skin tissue and minimize fine lines around the eyes and mouth.

Additionally, blueberry seed oil is an ideal ingredient for skin rejuvenation and products targeting damaged skin, with a fatty acid profile similar to rosehip oil. Its abundance of omega-3 (alpha-linolenic acid) offers benefits for conditions like eczema and psoriasis. The oil also treats skin damage from radiation burns and chemotherapy. It’s suitable for various cosmetic formulations, such as lotions, lip balms, facial creams, and hair care products.

Borage Seed (Borago officinalis)-

Borage seed oil is rich in GLA, or gamma-linolenic acid, a natural anti-inflammatory.  It also contains oleic acid, palmitic acid, eicosenoic acid, stearic acid and eurucid acid. If unrefined, it may contain vitamin E, squalene, and phytosterols. This oil is known for its powerful anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties, which make it highly effective in treating conditions like eczema and dermatitis.

Borage seed oil helps to restore moisture and smoothness to dry and damaged skin. It benefits atopic dermatitis and sensitive, acne-prone skin. Additionally, its high GLA content aids in maintaining healthy skin barrier function and reducing trans-epidermal water loss. The oil has a light to medium-weight texture that absorbs well into the skin without leaving a greasy residue.

Add up to 10% of borage seed oils to other carrier oils to treat eczema and psoriasis, or use “neat” on specific areas of affected skin. This pale yellow-greenish oil helps diminish signs of premature aging and aids skin elasticity. You can use it both internally and externally for this purpose.

Ryman pg. 9 suggests that borage seed helps the skin heal after surgery. Borage seed oil may also diminish itching and dryness in seborrheic eczema.  It helps regenerate the skin’s lipid barrier and reduces transdermal water loss. It oxidizes rapidly. Buy it in capsules and squeeze out the oil to keep it fresh.
Use cold-pressed, unrefined borage oil, as some of its benefits disappear when refined. Try it in moisturizers, serums, and masks.

Some people do not like the scent of borage. It is very prone to oxidation and is heat-sensitive. Store in a cool, dark place and use during the cool-down phase when formulating at under 40 Celsius. I buy borage oil in capsules, which I keep refrigerated to keep borage oil fresh. I pierce the capsules with a pin and squeeze the oil into my product as needed.

Broccoli Seed Oil- (Brassica oleracea)

Broccoli seed oil is rich in erucic acid (omega-9 fatty acid), linoleic acid (omega-6 fatty acid), and alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3 fatty acid). It has an exceptionally high content of omega-nine fatty acids, with erucic acid making up about 50% of its composition.

This oil is known for its excellent moisturizing properties, making it beneficial for skin and hair care and suitable for all skin types.

This cold-pressed oil, known for its quick absorption and dry touch, has a hue ranging from light gold to deep green and a lightweight, non-greasy texture easily absorbed by the skin and hair.

Broccoli seed oil stands out among vegetable oils due to its fatty acid profile, which ensures superb absorption and provides significant film-forming capabilities on the skin. This characteristic enables broccoli seed oil to function like a natural silicone, offering a ‘slip’ and imparting a silky finish to the skin, attributes not commonly found in carrier oils.

The presence of sulforaphane, a powerful phytonutrient, enables the oil to combat free radical damage and enhance the skin’s natural radiance. However, it does come with a mild cabbage-like scent, which can become more pronounced when used in large quantities within a product. To prevent a sulphurous odour, it is advised to use the oil at concentrations below 20%. The oil’s distinct acid profile is highlighted by its approximately 50% content of Erucic Acid (22:1).

Broccoli seed oil provides a natural sheen and aids in cuticle smoothing for hair while protecting against oxidation. Its light, non-greasy nature and efficient skin absorption make it an increasingly popular choice for hair care, offering a unique lustre to hair that surpasses other plant oils. Informally dubbed a ‘natural’ dimethicone, it’s especially beneficial in hair care products like shampoos, conditioners, and styling aids, as well as in skin lotions, balms, creams, and serums. The oil has a slightly viscous consistency and is relatively quickly absorbed by the skin compared to other carrier oils.

This oil is sometimes sourced from Canada!

Buriti Oil (Mauritia Flexuosa Seed) Moriche Palm

Found in the swampy regions of tropical South America, the tree that produces this distinctive oil can grow up to 115 feet tall. Buriti oil, derived from the seeds of the moriche palm, is rich in oleic acid (Omega-9 fatty acid), palmitic acid, and linoleic acid (Omega-6 fatty acid).

This oil is renowned for its high beta-carotene content, which is a potent antioxidant. It is typically deep orange-red and has a rich, thick texture that is absorbed well by the skin, leaving it soft and supple.

It has a semi-fatty viscosity and emits a faint, sweet aroma. Because of its intense reddish/orange colour, it is recommended to use this oil at a rate of up to 20% in formulations.

Buriti oil provides excellent hydration, deeply moisturizing the skin and hair. Its natural SPF properties help protect the skin against sun damage. Additionally, buriti oil is known for its regenerative properties making it particularly suited for mature, aging, sun-damaged, dry skin because of its quick penetration.

Buriti oil is acclaimed as the richest natural source of β-carotene, a type of carotenoid, constituting about 0.1% of the oil. This powerful antioxidant protects against sunlight’s harmful effects and neutralizes free radicals, with research indicating its β-carotene content may be five times higher than carrot oil.  Buriti seed oil is known to enhance collagen production and skin elasticity. It’s beneficial for addressing eczema, psoriasis, and rashes and can be used on sensitive skin, though a patch test is recommended. The oil is touted for reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, and it aids in healing wounds, burns, scars, and cuts. Additionally, it is recognized for its ability to detangle hair, which is particularly effective for coarse and curly textures.

Cacay/Kahai Oil (Caryodendron Orinocense)

Cacay oil, derived from the nuts of the Caryodendron orinocense tree, is rich in linoleic acid (Omega-6 fatty acid), oleic acid (Omega-9 fatty acid), vitamins A, B1, B2, B3, K, C, and E, and anthocyanin. It also serves as a natural source of retinol.

This oil is celebrated for its anti-aging properties, thanks to its high retinol content, which helps to promote cell turnover and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Cacay oil is also highly moisturizing, improving skin hydration and elasticity. Additionally, it contains antioxidants that help protect the skin from environmental damage.

The oil is typically light golden and has a lightweight, non-greasy texture that is easily absorbed by the skin. It has a faint, nutty aroma.

Despite its high cost, it is often used at concentrations of up to 50% in formulations. Known as one of the most luxurious and expensive oils from the Amazon, it boasts three times more Vitamin A than rosehip oil, underscoring its value in anti-aging skincare routines.

Cacay oil offers protection against sun damage, moisturizes the skin, diminishes signs of aging, and can help prevent the early formation of stretch marks. Traditionally, it was also utilized in hair loss treatments.

Regarding skin brightening, cacay seed oil effectively reduces hyperpigmentation, enhancing the skin’s brightness, softness, and firmness. It also aids in preventing sun spots and has been applied post-surgery to lessen scars and promote skin regeneration and tone restoration. Furthermore, its potential to reduce acne breakouts and anti-inflammatory properties make it suitable for red, reactive skin conditions such as rosacea and eczema. Originating from Colombia, Venezuela, and Morocco, cacay oil is a traditional remedy among native Colombians for various skin issues, including psoriasis, wrinkles, and hair loss.

Calendula Infused Oil (Calendula officinalis)–

Calendula, often infused with other carrier oils, is a vital macerated oil known for its beneficial effects on rough, cracked skin. It

is especially favoured by gardeners for its ability to heal hands that have endured extensive labour. Calendula-infused oil is rich in calendulin, carotenoids, and flavonoids. This oil is well-known for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and healing properties. Calendula oil helps to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it ideal for conditions like eczema, dermatitis, and rashes. It also promotes wound healing and can reduce the appearance of scars.

Additionally, calendula oil is highly moisturizing and can improve the overall hydration and texture of the skin. The oil is typically a golden yellow to orange colour, depending on the infusion process, and has a light to medium texture that is easily absorbed by the skin. This oil is also utilized in managing eczema and effectively healing hands exposed to cold or water. Renowned for its wound-healing properties, calendula is particularly effective for leg ulcers and persistent cuts and is acclaimed for its efficacy in treating diaper rash.

Research, like the study by Pommier et al. in the Journal of Clinical Oncology in 2004, indicates that calendula may be beneficial for dermatitis caused by radiation in post-operative breast cancer patients. Studies suggest that calendula cream can address erythema, though it may require up to four weeks of application, as reported in the African Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmacology.

Topical creams containing calendula have been found to reduce skin melanin content, offering skin-whitening effects. Calendula is also known to boost skin moisture, aiding skin barrier repair, enhancing water retention, and preserving skin structure and appearance, as noted by Joanne et al. in 2003. Research by Naveed Akhtar from the Department of Pharmacy in Pakistan in January 2011 suggests that calendula possesses anti-wrinkle properties.

However, individuals with a ragweed allergy should exercise caution, as calendula may trigger skin sensitization or histamine reactions. Moreover, calendula ointments and creams might not be ideal for oily skin types because of the potential increase in sebum production.
You can check this link from introductory aromatherapy for more on calendula.

https://www.northernstarcourses.com/lesson/a-carrier-oils-the-alchemy-of-dilution-and-enhancement/

Camelina Seed (Camelina sativa)

Camelina seed oil, also known as “false flax” oil, is rich in alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3 fatty acid), linoleic acid (omega-6 fatty acid), and oleic acid (omega-9 fatty acid), palmitic acid, stearic acid, and vitamin E. Additionally, camelina seed oil is a source of omega-3 fatty acids, tocopherols, and phenols, contributing to its anti-inflammatory properties and potential photo-protective effects.

Camelina oil is also highly moisturizing, providing deep hydration to the skin and improving its elasticity. Its high content of tocopherols (vitamin E) helps to nourish the skin and hair, promoting a healthy and radiant appearance. The oil is typically pale golden and has a light, non-greasy texture that absorbs quickly into the skin.

This oil is known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which help protect and repair the skin from environmental damage. Camelina seed oil is recognized for enhancing skin elasticity and offering anti-aging benefits. It effectively moisturizes the skin and aids in restoring hydration.

However, camelina seed oil tends to clog pores, which may restrict its applicability to specific skin types or conditions.

Camellia Seed– (Camellia japonica)- (tea seed oil)
This tree is from Asia. Camellia seed oil, or Tsubaki oil, is rich in oleic acid (Omega-9 fatty acid), linoleic acid (Omega-6 fatty acid), and palmitic acid. It also contains vitamins A, B, D, and E, which help protect the skin from environmental damage. Because of its high percentage of Omega-9, it absorbs quickly into the skin.

This oil is well-known for its excellent moisturizing and anti-aging properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products. Camellia oil is highly effective in maintaining skin hydration, improving skin elasticity, and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The oil is typically light yellow and has a lightweight, non-greasy texture that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair. According to Donna Maria (pg. 36), the carrier oil made from the seeds is used to help restructure the skin. Camellia seed softens rough, dry patches, does not block pores and is safe to use with acne. It absorbs beautifully and is used in cosmetics to help give a slick finish to the product.

The Japanese have used it to soften hair, make it shinier, and repair split ends. To repair hair health, put a few drops of the oil on your fingers and massage it into damp hair. Camellia seed is commonly used to strengthen nails. It is also used like jojoba and MCT as a medium in perfumery.

Cannabidiol—CBD Oil may come from one of three plant species: Cannabis sativa, Cannabis indica, or Cannabis ruderalis.

This oil is a relative of both hemp and marijuana, with classification depending on the THC content. Hemp has 0.3% or less THC, while marijuana exceeds this concentration. CBD oil is rich in cannabidiol, terpenes, and flavonoids.

CBD oil is well-known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and soothing properties. It helps to reduce inflammation and redness, making it beneficial for conditions such as acne, eczema, and psoriasis. It also promotes skin health by combating oxidative stress and supporting the skin’s natural healing processes. CBD oil is highly moisturizing and can improve skin hydration and elasticity. The oil is typically light green to golden.

It has a light, non-greasy texture that absorbs well into the skin. It is beneficial for sensitive skin. Additionally, it may offer relief from chronic pain and alter sensations of itching and inflammation. There’s also potential for it to diminish histamine responses in human skin.
This plant may create legal issues in some countries or states, so if you use it in products you sell, check what is allowed.

Carrot Root (Daucus carota)

Carrot root oil is rich in beta-carotene, vitamin A, and essential fatty acids. This oil is renowned for its rejuvenating and anti-aging properties, making it a popular choice in skincare formulations. Carrot root oil helps to promote skin cell regeneration, improve skin tone, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, its high antioxidant content protects the skin from environmental stressors and free radical damage. Carrot root oil is typically deep orange and has a medium to heavy texture that provides intense hydration and nourishment to the skin.

Carrot root carrier oil is cherished for its high beta-carotene content, a precursor to vitamin A. It’s known for its moisturizing, nourishing, and skin-rejuvenating properties, making it a popular choice in skincare formulations. It’s also used in aromatherapy blends, mixed with essential oils, to create synergistic and therapeutic combinations.
It suits dry or oily acne, scar tissue, and cellular regeneration. It has some sunscreen ability and protects from ultraviolet rays. Note that this is not carrot seed, which is an essential oil. This carrier is very orange and can stain. Dilute in other carriers to about 5-10% concentration.

Castor Seed Oil (Ricinus communis)-

The oil is extracted by pressing the castor plant beans, which are indigenous to India, Africa, and the Mediterranean. While castor beans contain toxins, they should not be in the oil since they are water-soluble.

Castor oil is transparent and viscous and is not meant for internal consumption. Its thick, viscous texture can be slightly sticky but deeply moisturizing. Castor oil is commonly used in bath oils and compresses and was historically applied to Egyptian mummies with other oils and wax. It’s often blended with other carrier oils to enhance the softness and suppleness of the end product. The oil’s components include ricinoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, phytosterols, and vitamin E.

Castor oil is often used in skincare and haircare products to promote hydration and soothe irritated skin. It is also an excellent emollient, helping to create a protective barrier on the skin that locks in moisture. Also, castor oil promotes hair growth and improves hair texture. It’s particularly beneficial for scalp massages to stimulate blood circulation, aiding hair loss treatment. To use, warm the oil, apply it to the scalp and hair, and leave it for an hour, ensuring no ingestion occurs.

In skincare, castor oil is used to clean the skin and help draw out impurities. It’s also a common ingredient in makeup, providing shine and aiding in the adherence of pigments to the skin, and it is found in products like natural lipsticks and blushes. Castor oil is a key component in creating cleansers, shampoos, and moisturizers because of its protective and hydrating properties. It absorbs into the skin very slowly and is rarely used as a single oil. It is also used as a breast compress. Some people are allergic to ricinoleic acid, the main component of castor seed oil.

Ricinus communis may offer antifungal benefits when used externally.

Caulophyllum Inophyllum – Seed (Tamanu)

Tamanu oil, extracted from the seeds of the Calophyllum inophyllum tree, is rich in calophyllolide, inophyllum, and delta-tocotrienol, oleic, linoleic, and stearic acid. This viscous, dark green oil emits a slightly nutty aroma. It is known for its high phytosterol content and anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties.

Tamanu oil is particularly effective in promoting wound healing, reducing scars, and soothing irritated skin. It also contains high levels of antioxidants that protect the skin from environmental damage and promote its overall health. As a particularly thick carrier oil, Tamanu is beneficial for conditions like eczema and possibly psoriasis, promoting the formation of new skin tissue and aiding in skin repair. Its antibiotic and anti-inflammatory qualities make it suitable for treating post-surgical wounds and radiation burns, although monitoring signs of infection is crucial.

Tamanu oil may offer relief for herpes and hemorrhoids and is known to help diminish scars, including those from acne, reducing their size. It’s effective in alleviating pain and is highly recommended for diaper rash. It’s advisable to use Tamanu oil in concentrations up to 20% for topical applications.

Centella Asiatica– (Gotu Kola)

Gotu kola oil, derived from the leaves of the Centella asiatica plant, is rich in asiaticoside, madecassoside, and asiatic acid. Centella contains more than 70 constituents. Known for its powerful healing and anti-inflammatory properties, gotu kola oil is commonly used in skincare to promote wound healing, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of scars.

Gotu kola oil also has significant antioxidant properties, which protect the skin from environmental stressors and promote overall skin health. It is typically light green and has a light to medium texture that absorbs well into the skin, leaving it feeling nourished and rejuvenated.

Centella carrier oil has been used for erythema and keloids. It may help prevent stretch marks and cellulite. Centella works harmoniously with Rose Hip Seed for scarring. It may inhibit scars from getting inflamed and creating keloids, resulting in better skin and scar appearance.

This plant may be helpful as an anti-aging tool, as it enhances type 1 collagen, firms skin elasticity and helps with weather-damaged skin.
As an extract used internally, it may also help to control fluid retention. If the tincture is used internally, wound healing may be accelerated.
It is helpful in moisturizing products, particularly for sensitive and dry skin. It may also help treat stretch marks.
Allergies and contact dermatitis may occur.

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Chia Seed Oil (Salvia Hispanica Seed)

This thin, dry oil is quick-absorbing and very high in alpha-linolenic acid, palmitic acid, and oleic acid. Another superfood seed oil imparts a silky, soft feeling to the skin and has a very high omega-3 content. This powerful seed oil has unusually high levels of phytonutrients and antioxidants, even more so than blueberry seed oil.

Chia seed oil is soothing, smooths fine wrinkles, and improves skin elasticity. It contains approximately 1% phytosterols and a high alpha-linolenic acid content, making it a perfect oil for skin with a damaged lipid barrier. Known for its powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, chia seed oil is often used in skincare to hydrate the skin, reduce inflammation, and protect against environmental damage.

It is highly moisturizing and helps to maintain the skin’s barrier function, making it an excellent choice for dry and sensitive skin. Chia seed oil is typically light yellow and has a light, non-greasy texture that absorbs quickly into the skin, leaving it feeling soft and nourished.

It can be used on all skin types but is especially suited to dry, chapped, and aging skin. Because of its yellow hue, the usage rate is up to 50%.

Coconut Oil (Cocos nucifera)

Coconut oil has become a staple in both the culinary and beauty industries. In-home cosmetics are favoured for treating dry skin and hair and as an ingredient in toothpaste and suppositories. Its affordability, health benefits, and ease of use contribute to its popularity. Coconut oil is a rich source of medium-chain fatty acids, including lauric acid, myristic acid, caprylic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, and stearic acid, which are known for their antimicrobial properties. It’s suitable for various skin types and has a mild anti-fungal effect, making it a preferred vaginal lubricant. However, individual tolerance should always be considered.

Coconut oil is a versatile carrier for essential oils, addressing numerous health and beauty concerns. According to Rachel Link at Healthline.com, the medium-chain fatty acids in coconut oil protect against harmful microorganisms, which are crucial for skin health as they can prevent infections such as acne, cellulitis, folliculitis, and athlete’s foot. Lauric acid, nearly 50% of coconut oil’s fatty acid content, is particularly effective against harmful bacteria. Studies show lauric acid can inhibit bacterial growth and combat Propionibacterium acnes, which can cause inflammatory acne.

Capric acid, another component of coconut oil, exhibits significant antimicrobial properties and is effective against bacteria and fungi.

However, those with oily skin might need alternative carriers, as coconut oil can clog pores and lead to blackheads. It may also irritate sensitive skin types.

MCT Coconut Oil (Medium-Chain Triglycerides from Cocos nucifera)

MCT coconut oil, derived from the medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs) in coconut oil, primarily consists of caprylic acid, capric acid, and lauric acid. It is known for its lightweight, non-greasy texture, making it highly absorbent and less likely to clog pores than regular coconut oil. MCT oil is celebrated for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, making it an excellent choice for skincare and hair care. It helps to hydrate the skin, reduce inflammation, and protect against microbial infections. MCT oil is typically clear and liquid at room temperature. Unlike regular coconut oil, it is less likely to cause pore clogging and breakouts, making it more suitable for individuals with acne-prone skin.

Fractionated Coconut Oil

Fractionated Coconut Oil is a type of coconut oil that has had its long-chain triglycerides removed through a process of hydrolysis and steam distillation, leaving behind the medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs). This oil is stable, has a long shelf life, remains liquid at room temperature, and is odorless and colorless. It’s lightweight and easily absorbed by the skin, making it an excellent carrier oil in various cosmetic formulations.

Both Fractionated Coconut Oil and MCT Oil can be used in perfumery as carrier oils. They are excellent choices due to their light texture, lack of strong scent, and ability to blend well with essential oils. Their quick absorption and non-greasy finish make them ideal for skin applications, ensuring that the fragrance is delivered effectively without leaving an oily residue.

Cranberry Seed Oil–(Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed)

Cranberry seed oil, extracted through cold pressing from the seeds of cranberries, is distinguished by its golden-to-yellow hue and light, dry texture, allowing for quick absorptionRich in linoleic, alpha-linolenic, and oleic acids, it is also an excellent source of carotenoids, antioxidants, polyphenols, and vitamins. Its high phytosterol content and balanced 1:1 ratio of omega-3 to omega-6 essential fatty acids contribute to its outstanding antioxidant properties and skin benefits, making it suitable for all skin types.

This superfruit oil contains an impressive array of tocopherols, tocotrienols (forms of Vitamin E), and Vitamin A, enhancing its anti-wrinkle efficacy and making it a valuable component in anti-aging products. Cranberry seed oil’s excellent absorption properties make it ideal for treating aging and dry skin while offering protection from environmental stressors. It is popular in lotions, serums, moisturizers, massage oils, and hair conditioners.

Additionally, its antibacterial qualities make it beneficial in toothpaste formulations. Mirroring the health benefits of cranberry fruit, the oil may aid in combating urinary tract infections. It promotes scalp and skin health, counters hair loss and thinning, and prevents hair follicles from drying out. It also combats dandruff and soothes itchy scalps. However, its use is discouraged during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Native to North America, cranberry seed oil is celebrated for its versatile benefits in skin and hair care.

Dandelion Flower (Taraxacum officinale)-

Infused with other carrier oils, the dandelion flower is rich in flavonoids and polyphenols. Dandelion flower oil is a brilliant pain reliever for neck and shoulder tension and arthritis of the knees and elbows. It is also rich in vitamins A, C, and E and essential fatty acids and polyphenols. Known for its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties, dandelion flower oil is often used in skincare to calm irritated skin, reduce inflammation, and protect against free radical damage.

This oil is particularly effective in soothing skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and acne. It also helps to promote skin health by enhancing moisture retention and providing essential nutrients. Dandelion flower-infused oil is typically golden yellow and has a light to medium texture that is easily absorbed by the skin. The flower extracts are also suitable for inflammation, deep tissue massage, and breast cysts. Always determine what your dandelion flowers are infused to understand your product’s properties further.

If you have a ragweed allergy, this plant might be a skin sensitizer or even cause histamine reactions. The root contains small amounts of latex, an allergen for some.

Date Seed Oil (Phoenix dactylifera)

Date seed oil, rich in oleic, linoleic, lauric, palmitic, and stearic acids, features a light, thin, and silky consistency with a yellow-to-brown colour, allowing for rapid skin penetration. Date seed oil is produced using oil extraction machines. Initially, date seeds are loaded into the machine, which undergoes pressing to separate the oil from the seeds. After this initial extraction, the oil contains impurities that must be removed. To purify the oil, it is passed through a filter. This filtering process involves pressing the oil further into a solvent or filter to eliminate all impurities, resulting in clean, ready-to-use date seed oil.

Date seed oil, with its high content of polyphenols and tocopherols (vitamin E), deeply hydrates the skin, reduces inflammation, and protects against environmental damage.

This oil is particularly effective in improving skin elasticity and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Date seed oil can be used in formulations at a rate of up to 100%. Known as ‘Desert Oil,’ this non-greasy oil imparts a moisturized feel to the skin. Its antiseptic attributes are particularly beneficial for various skin types, including oily, combination and irritated skin. Historically revered for its skin-enhancing properties, date seed oil is acclaimed for enhancing skin tone and decelerating the signs of aging, promoting collagen and skin elasticity. Esteemed in ancient Egypt, Dattier du Desert Oil was used to anoint the skin of royalty and was discovered in pyramid tombs.

When applied topically, the date palm exhibits potent anti-inflammatory effects and, with its antioxidant capacity, shields the skin from free radical damage, making it a valuable ingredient in daytime skincare products like serums and facial oils.

In hair care, date seed oil is prized for its softening ability, particularly benefiting wiry or frizzy hair. It supports scalp health and may contribute to hair thickening. While it’s suggested that it could prevent premature graying, this claim has not yet been proven.

Emu-Bird–

Emu oil contains oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, palmitoleic acid, and omega-3, 6, 7 and 9. These components effectively treat skin inflammation, including eczema and psoriasis. Because of its high content of essential fatty acids and antioxidants, emu oil helps to hydrate the skin, reduce inflammation, and accelerate wound healing. This oil is particularly effective in soothing dry, irritated skin and improving the appearance of scars and stretch marks. Emu oil is typically pale yellow and has a thick, creamy texture that is readily absorbed by the skin.

Emu oil has the unique ability to penetrate all seven layers of the skin, making it an ideal carrier oil. It carries essential oils down deep.

Emu oil has anti-inflammatory properties, making it helpful for burns, scarring, dermatitis, arthritis, and even ear inflammation. Uses include cracked heels, eczema, shingles, carpal tunnel, and tennis elbow. However, this oil can go rancid quickly. To me, it has a slight smell of chicken fat. It does not clog pores.

Many of our students find emus too cute to use in this manner.

Grapeseed (Vitus vinifera)-

This is a fine-textured, greenish carrier oil. The primary chemical constituents of Grapeseed Carrier Oil are Linoleic Acid, Oleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Palmitoleic Acid, Vitamin E, and beta-carotene. Known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and moisturizing properties, grapeseed oil is often used in skincare and haircare products to improve skin texture, reduce inflammation, and hydrate the skin.

Because of its astringent properties, this oil is particularly effective in balancing oily and acne-prone skin. It also helps to tighten and tone the skin, but it is suitable for all skin types. Grapeseed oil has a light, non-greasy texture that is easily absorbed by the skin and almost odourless.

Grapeseed oil contains a powerful antioxidant ingredient called proanthocyanidin. This antioxidant may even out skin tone when used on your skin consistently. Taking grapeseed oil extract orally has improved melasma symptoms (called chloasma and the “mask of pregnancy”) and skin hyperpigmentation.

The downside of grapeseed is that it is often solvent extracted, so there may be solvent residue. I have occasionally seen it in organic form, but it is rare and expensive. Ryman, pg. 9, suggests it is excellent for circulation within the tiny capillaries. Only cold-pressed and processed without solvents is recommended. Organic oil is costly.

Grapefruit Seed Extract– (Citrus paradisi)

Grapefruit seed oil is produced by pressing or crushing grapefruit seeds. Grapefruit seed extract (GSE) is rich in naringin, limonoids, and ascorbic acid (vitamin C). Known for its potent antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties, GSE is often used in skincare products to combat acne, protect against free radicals, and soothe irritated skin.

This extract is particularly effective in cleansing and purifying the skin, enhancing skin radiance, and reducing signs of aging. GSE is typically light yellow and has a watery texture. It is generally considered safe for topical use but should be diluted appropriately to avoid skin irritation. There are no known contraindications, but it is advisable to conduct a patch test before used to ensure no allergic reactions.

Initially, it was considered a potent preservative and antimicrobial agent. However, the validity of these claims has become a subject of debate, especially with the rising dominance of synthetic alternatives. Research dating back to 1991 highlighted concerns about undeclared synthetic additives like methylparaben and triclosan in grapefruit seed products, with thirteen scholarly articles providing evidence of such adulteration.

While pure grapefruit seed oil does exist in the market, consumers are advised to scrutinize product labels meticulously to avoid synthetic contaminants. Triclosan, a compound often found in antibacterial soaps, has been shown to disrupt muscle function, raising health concerns.

Guava Seed Oil (Psidium Guajava Seed)

Extracted from the seeds of the guava fruit, native to Central and South America, guava seed oil diminishes the visibility of scars and stretch marks. Its light and non-comedogenic nature makes it ideal for acne-prone skin. The oil is a powerhouse of antioxidants, including carotenoids (predominantly lycopene), vitamins E and A, and essential fatty acids such as linoleic, palmitic, oleic, and stearic acids.

Guava seed oil helps to tighten the skin, reduce the appearance of pores, and improve skin texture. It is also effective in reducing the appearance of scars and promoting skin regeneration.

Guava seed oil is excellent for reducing the appearance of cellulite, making it a prime ingredient for body care products. It enhances skin elasticity and firmness, offering a tightening effect that revitalizes the skin. Its astringent and non-comedogenic properties are particularly beneficial for oily skin types or skin with enlarged pores.

Guava seed oil has a subtle yet refreshing aroma of guava fruit. Because of its thick viscosity, it absorbs slowly into the skin. The oil’s rich orange-to-brown colour necessitates cautious usage in formulations—less than 20% is recommended to avoid overly intense coloration.

Hazelnut (Corylus avellana)-

Hazelnut oil, slightly astringent, is particularly effective for oily or combination skin types. This oil, ranging in colour from transparent to pale yellow, is predominantly composed of oleic and linoleic acids, with smaller concentrations of palmitic acid. Its beneficial effects extend to aiding conditions such as acne, dermatitis, and seborrheic eczema. Known for its good absorption properties, hazelnut oil is especially suitable for use on the face. Hazelnut oil deeply hydrates without leaving a greasy residue. This oil is particularly effective in protecting the skin against environmental stressors because of its high antioxidant content. Hazelnut oil is typically light yellow and has a light, non-greasy texture.

Its astringent properties also help tighten the skin, which can help treat varicose veins. Recommended for oily skin, it helps regulate sebum production and maintains a shelf life of approximately one year.

Please be aware of if there are nut allergies.

Hemp Seed– (Cannabis sativa)

Hemp seed oil and cannabis sativa oil, which we discussed earlier, can sometimes be confused, but they are not the same. Here’s a breakdown:

Hemp Seed Oil is extracted from the hemp plant seeds (Cannabis sativa). This oil is rich in essential fatty acids such as linoleic acid (Omega-6), alpha-linolenic acid (Omega-3), and oleic acid (Omega-9), as well as vitamins like vitamin E. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and antioxidant properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products. It helps to hydrate, soothe irritated skin, and balance oily skin.

Because of its nutritional benefits, hempseed oil is primarily used in skincare, haircare, and as a dietary supplement. Importantly, hemp seed oil contains little to no THC (tetrahydrocannabinol), the psychoactive compound found in cannabis.

Cannabis Sativa Oil, on the other hand, can refer to oil extracted from the entire cannabis plant, including flowers, leaves, and stalks, not just the seeds. This oil may contain a broader range of cannabinoids, including CBD (cannabidiol) and sometimes THC. Cannabinoids like CBD and THC provide various therapeutic effects, such as pain relief and anti-inflammatory benefits. Cannabis sativa oil is also used in skincare for its potential anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties and for treating conditions like pain and anxiety.

Key Differences

• Source: Hemp seed oil is derived solely from the hemp plant’s seeds, while cannabis sativa oil can be extracted from the whole plant, including flowers and leaves.
• Cannabinoid Content: Hemp seed oil rarely contains significant levels of cannabinoids like CBD or THC. In contrast, cannabis sativa oil may contain these compounds, which can influence its effects and usage.
• Usage and Regulation: Hemp seed oil is widely used in the cosmetic and food industries and is more accepted and regulated because it lacks psychoactive compounds. Cannabis sativa oil, depending on its cannabinoid content, may be subject to stricter regulations.

Hemp seed oil is nutrient rich and primarily used for its skincare and nutritional benefits, with no significant levels of cannabinoids. Because of its high content of essential fatty acids and vitamins, it is particularly effective in balancing oily skin, soothing irritated skin, and promoting overall skin health. The oil is typically light green and has a light, non-greasy texture that is easily absorbed by the skin.

A former student, now a graduate working closely with hemp oil, attests that it can penetrate all levels of the skin and serves as a good substitute for emu oil.

Jojoba– (Simmondsia chinensis) Seed Wax

The jojoba plant, with a lifespan often exceeding 100 years and sometimes even reaching 200 years, produces seeds rich in oil, comprising 40-60% of their weight. Jojoba oil comprises a mix of fatty acids and vitamins, including palmitic, stearic, oleic, behenic, eicosenoic acid, docosenoic acid, and nervonic acids, alongside vital nutrients like vitamin E and B complex. Jojoba oil is typically golden yellow.

This oil is unique because it is a liquid wax. It remains liquid at room temperature and closely mimics the qualities of human skin sebum. Known for its exceptional stability and similarity to the skin’s natural sebum, jojoba oil is celebrated for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and non-comedogenic properties. It is particularly effective in balancing oil production, soothing irritated skin, and providing a protective barrier without clogging pores.

Jojoba oil’s remarkable stability and resistance to oxidation are attributed to its high vitamin E content and minimal presence of polyunsaturated components. Its compatibility with various skin types makes jojoba oil a versatile ingredient in perfumes, body oils, and bath products. Its wax-like nature contributes to its resistance to rancidity. Jojoba oil’s natural anti-fungal properties and ability to unclog hair follicles are beneficial for hair health, aiding in preventing hair loss.

Jojoba Video, Please Press Play

Kukui Nut (Aleurites moluccanus)-

Kukui nut oil is rich in linoleic acid (Omega-6 fatty acid), alpha-linolenic acid (Omega-3 fatty acid), and oleic acid (Omega-9 fatty acid). Known for its deep moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and skin-healing properties, kukui nut oil is widely used in skincare formulations. It helps to soothe dry, irritated skin, improve skin elasticity, and accelerate wound healing. This oil is particularly effective in treating conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and dry skin due to its high fatty acid content and rapid absorption. Kukui nut oil is typically pale yellow and has a light, non-greasy texture that is easily absorbed by the skin.

This carrier oil penetrates the skin well. It can be used for crow’s feet, sunburns, and irritated and chapped skin. However, it goes rancid quickly.

Macadamia Nut (Macadamia ternifolia)-

This oil’s fatty acid profile includes Lauric, Oleic, Myristic, Palmitic, Palmitoleic, Stearic, Linoleic, Arachidic, Gadoleic, and Behenic acids. Macadamia nut oil is a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare formulations known for its excellent moisturizing, anti-aging, and regenerative properties.

Macadamia nut oil offers a luxurious, “cushiony” sensation on the skin, making it an ideal ingredient for rich, heavy creams. It provides comfort while boasting a moderate absorption rate and can shield cells from oxidative damage, acting as a potent ally against premature aging. It helps improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This oil is particularly effective in nourishing dry and mature skin because of its high content of fatty acids and vitamins. Macadamia nut oil is typically light yellow and has a medium-weight, non-greasy texture.

Macadamia nut oil exhibits notable anti-inflammatory properties. It is particularly abundant in omega-9 and oleic acid, which benefits skin care routines. Additionally, it offers advantages for hair health, addressing issues like dandruff and hair loss.

The high-fat content of macadamia nut oil makes it a superb choice for soap production. It allows soap to glide smoothly over the skin without leaving a greasy residue. It’s also highly valued in formulations for lip care products. However, caution is advised for individuals with nut allergies, as they should avoid using macadamia nut oil.

Meadowfoam Seed (Limnanthes alba)-

Containing 98% fatty acids with long-chain carbon atoms, Meadowfoam Carrier Oil is distinguished by its resistance to oxidation, thanks to the naturally occurring tocopherols. This makes it one of the most stable lipids available, capable of prolonging the shelf life of products that incorporate less stable ingredients. Its fatty acid composition includes Eicos-5-enoic, Dors-5-enoic, Docos-13-enoic, and Erucic acid, with the latter not recommended for ingestion.

The inherent stability of Meadowfoam Oil contributes to its exceptionally long shelf life. Meadowfoam seed oil is often used in skincare and haircare formulations to improve moisture retention and protect against environmental stressors, particularly those designed for outdoor use.

It’s a crucial component in a diverse array of products, such as suntan lotions, massage oils, lotions, hand and facial creams, hair and scalp treatments, cuticle repair creams, lip balm, makeup products (including foundations, rouges, face powders, lipsticks), shampoos, shaving creams, and different balms.  This oil is particularly effective in preventing moisture loss and providing a barrier to keep skin hydrated. Meadowfoam seed oil is typically clear to pale yellow and has a light, non-greasy texture that absorbs well into the skin.

In hair care, Meadowfoam oil is particularly beneficial as it is less likely to strip colour from dyed hair than other oils, offering an advantage for colour-treated hair. It is also acclaimed for its effectiveness in managing brittle, tangled, or frizzy hair, providing a smoothing and conditioning effect.

Mullein (Verbascum thapsus) Flower Oil-

This is another macerated oil. Always check to see the other carriers used in the maceration process to fully understand the product’s properties.

Mullein contains coumarin, rotenone, tannins, saponins, aucubin, catalpol, flavonoids and verbascoside. Known for its anti-inflammatory, soothing, and antimicrobial properties, mullein flower oil is often used in skincare formulations to calm irritated skin, reduce inflammation, and protect against infections. Because of its soothing and healing properties, it is particularly effective in treating conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and acne. Mullein flower oil is typically light yellow and has a light, non-greasy texture that is easily absorbed by the skin.

Mullein oil is helpful for hemorrhoids, ear infections (consider combining it with garlic) and possibly even fleas. For healing, it may benefit painful joints, cramps, muscles and arthritis. Massaged onto the throat and sinus points, it can help release phlegm. Some claim that if you rub it onto the temples, it may help with headaches. Combine with calendula to make a diaper rash cream. It is often used to create a nipple cream for nursing mothers. Always wash it off well before feeding the baby.

Apply mullein to rashes, boils, ingrown hair, and cysts for skin conditions. It is not fast-acting. It can be applied to the scalp to help eliminate cradle cap. It may take a few washes. It can also be put on the scalp and hair to relieve itchiness.

Neem Seed- Azadirachta indica

Neem has been used in India for thousands of years. Many families in India will have their own Neem tree, which has been used for everything from treating blood pressure to diabetes and urinary tract infections. In 1992, the National Academy of Science of the United Nations called the Neem tree “A tree for solving global problems.”

Ayurvedic coils.com wrote about Neem oil. “Every day, many Indian families start their day with Neem, where the twigs are used as a natural toothbrush for combating oral problems.
The tea prepared with a decoction of Neem leaves, consumed on an empty stomach in the morning, is said to flush out toxic remains in the system, kill microbes in the body, and increase the immune power.”

“All the parts of the Neem tree, including its leaves, bark, twigs, gum, fruits, flowers, seeds, and cold-pressed Neem oil, have enormous medicinal value.”

“Neem leaf paste has been used in various folklore medicinal practices for treating pimples, chicken pox boils, viral infections, bedsores, psoriasis, eczema, and wounds. Neem leaf decoction was also used for treating dandruff, hair fall, and head lice.”

“Chemical constituents and therapeutic properties of Neem seed oil include triterpenoid compounds like Azadirachtin and Nimbin, triglycerides, and sterols, including stigmasterol, campesterol, and beta-sitosterol. This oil also contains fatty acids, namely Omega-6, Omega-9, stearic acid, and palmitic acid.”

“These components contribute to its remedial values like antimicrobial, antiviral, antiseptic, antifungal, antihistamine, febrifuge, antipyretic, hepatoprotective, analgesic, diuretic, anti-inflammatory, immune stimulant, antioxidant, emmenagogue, circulatory, vermifuge, anthelmintic, astringent, cicatrisant, spermicidal and nervine.”

This carrier oil is thick and dark and smells a bit like garlic. It has antifungal properties and is very potent. It is used for acne, psoriasis, eczema, ringworm, and warts. It may also be used for dandruff, hair loss, scabies and listless hair. Nails that have yellowed because of fungi may be helped with it as a base. It is a pesticide.

Avoid during pregnancy.

Oat Oil (Avena Sativa Kernel)
Extraction Ethanol

You may recognize this oil from Aveeno Products, which specializes in oat-based cosmetics and lotions.

Oat oil, characterized by its palmitic, stearic, oleic, and linoleic acid content, has a low viscosity and a vibrant golden hue. Oat oil is produced using solvent extraction, which differs from the typical cold pressing used for many seed oils. In this process, the oil is separated from the oats’ seeds or kernels using cellulose-derived ethanol, a type of biofuel. This method efficiently extracts the oil while utilizing a bio-based solvent. This makes it exceptionally beneficial for dry or dermatitis-affected skin. Oat oil at a 1-5% concentration in formulations is recommended.

Oat oil is renowned for its remarkable softening, smoothing, and hydrating properties, making it a sought-after ingredient in skin and hair care products. Its ultra-conditioning nature ensures that skin is left feeling silky and soft. Oat oil is laden with soothing and moisturizing compounds, including naturally occurring ceramide, reinforcing the skin’s moisture barrier and its anti-inflammatory qualities. The traditional use of oatmeal in baths to alleviate skin irritation underscores its therapeutic benefits.

While oat oil is readily absorbed, its emollient properties make it an excellent choice for treating chapped skin, eczema, rosacea, and sensitive skin types. It exhibits a pale yellow colour and carries the distinctive scent of oat. With a phytosterol content exceeding 1%, oat oil plays a crucial role in skin barrier restoration, potentially slowing the aging process and aiding in healing scarred and blemished skin.

Oat & Marshmallow Root Gel, Video from Brenda Holder, Survival Crafts–

Olive (Olea europeaea) Fruit Oil-

This beloved oil is rich in vitamins. If possible, always use cold-pressed, virgin oil. It is suitable for dry, chapped, inflamed skin and helpful for rheumatoid conditions. The primary chemical constituents of Olive Carrier Oil are Oleic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Polyphenols, Vitamin E, Carotenoids, and Squalene.

Olive oil is known for its deep moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties, and it is widely used in skincare and haircare formulations. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin elasticity, and protect against environmental damage. Olive oil is particularly effective in treating dry and mature skin because of its emollient properties and ability to enhance the skin’s barrier function. Olive fruit oil is typically golden yellow to green and has a medium-weight, slightly oily texture.

Olive’s strong, food-like scent is its downfall when used for cosmetic making. It is also a bit sticky. Olive oil is highly adulterated on the market, so caution is advised when purchasing. Look for organic, extra virgin, and cold-pressed.

How to choose olive oil for your home? Here are some ideas- but I would add organic to the list of recommendations. We often get organic olive oil from Costco. I prefer the Spanish.  https://www.oliveoil.com/how-to-choose-best-olive-oil-expert-tips/

Here’s a fun article on the many uses of olive oil-https://www.naturesblends.com/blogs/news/11-surprising-benefits-of-olive-oil-for-skin-and-hair-plus-how-to-use-it

Passion Flower Seed (Passiflora incarnata)-

I love anything that comes from this plant! Passionflower seed oil is rich in linoleic acid (Omega-6 fatty acid), oleic acid (Omega-9 fatty acid), and various antioxidants, including vitamins A and C. Known for its anti-inflammatory, soothing, and moisturizing properties, passion flower seed oil is used in skincare formulations to hydrate the skin, reduce redness, and protect against environmental damage.

Passionflower seed oil is particularly effective in calming irritated skin and promoting a smooth, radiant complexion. It is typically light yellow and has a light, non-greasy texture. You can take it orally to promote and maintain skin elasticity. Oral usage may also be very soothing for your nervous system and sleep-promoting, so take it later in the day. You may also buy the oil in capsules and then poke the capsule with a needle to squeeze it out for skincare purposes.

Peach Kernel (nut) – (Prunus persica)

This pale yellow oil is cold-pressed from the peach kernel. It has a delicate, sweet aroma. Although the varieties of peach trees are large and have different constituents, oleic and linoleic acids and vitamins A and E are consistent in the various cultivars. Known for its moisturizing, emollient, and anti-inflammatory properties, peach kernel oil is often used in skincare formulations to hydrate the skin, improve elasticity, and soothe irritation. It is particularly effective in treating dry and sensitive skin because of its light texture and high fatty acid content. Peach kernel oil is typically pale yellow.

Peach nut oil is fine-textured and absorbs into the skin well. It is unlikely to clog pores. It is suitable for all skin types: dehydrated, irritated and flakey. It is soothing and may slow down the aging process in the skin and maintain elasticity due to the polyunsaturated fatty acids.

Peach kernel oil makes an excellent facial cleanser. Put a few drops onto each side of a flat cotton pad. Tear the pad in half. Use half the pad on each side of the face as a regular cleaning ritual.

Rosehip seed oil is rich in linoleic acid (omega-6 fatty acid), alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3 fatty acid), and oleic acid (omega-9 fatty acid). It is also high in vitamins A (retinoic acid) and C, along with antioxidants such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and beta-carotene.

Known for its regenerative, moisturizing, and anti-aging properties, rose hip seed oil is frequently used in skincare formulations to hydrate the skin, reduce the appearance of scars and fine lines, and improve skin tone. This oil is particularly effective in treating dry and mature skin because it contains essential fatty acids and vitamins. This translucent to subtly tinted oil is renowned for its anti-aging properties. Rosehip oil is in high demand for its ability to heal eczema, diminish scars, prevent wrinkles, and treat burns, offering tangible benefits. It is highly desired in cosmetic making.

Additionally, it’s an effective remedy for stretch marks. However, it’s important to note that rosehip seed oil might exacerbate pustular acne. For optimal quality and efficacy, please use only cold-pressed rosehip seed oil and store it in the refrigerator to maintain its freshness since it has a relatively short shelf life.

Significantly, Rosehip Seed oil, mainly from Chile, is backed by the most research, underscoring its therapeutic value and popularity in skincare circles.

• Rosehip Oil Promotes Excisional Wound Healing by Accelerating the Phenotypic Transition of Macrophages.

  Lei Z, Cao Z, Yang Z, Ao M, Jin W, Yu L.Planta Med. 2019 May;85(7):563-569. doi: 10.1055/a-0725-8456. Epub 2018 Sep 10.PMID: 30199901

Safflower  Oil- (Carthamus tinctorius)

This commonly available and affordable carrier oil boasts a rich texture, making it an excellent choice for moisturizing dry skin. Safflower oil contains beneficial fatty acids, including linoleic, oleic, palmitic, and stearic acids, contributing to its nourishing properties. Because of its high content of essential fatty acids and antioxidants, it is particularly effective in treating dry and sensitive skin. Safflower oil is typically light yellow.

As a versatile ingredient, safflower oil is frequently used to create creams and cosmetics. It offers relief from sunburns, rheumatism, and arthritis. While some suggest that consuming safflower oil can alleviate specific allergy symptoms, caution is advised, especially for individuals with ragweed allergies, as it may trigger skin sensitization or histamine responses. The internal use of safflower oil garners varied opinions, so it’s wise to approach it carefully.

Safflower oil is prized for its moisturizing and antimicrobial qualities in skincare. It assists in skin rejuvenation, softening, and moisture retention, all at a cost-effective price point. Its application helps revitalize damaged skin and maintain hydration.

Safflower oil goes rancid quickly.

Infused oil- Depending on what this oil is infused with, it may be helpful for eczema, psoriasis, sciatica, and shingles-(herpes zoster). St. John’s Wort-infused oil is rich in hypericin, hyperforin, and flavonoids. Known for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and healing properties, St. John’s Wort oil is commonly used in skincare formulations to treat wounds, burns, and irritated skin.

It helps soothe the skin, reduce inflammation, and promote healing. Because of its high content of active compounds, the oil is particularly effective in treating minor burns, cuts, and skin irritations. St. John’s Wort oil is typically deep red and has a medium-weight texture. It has traditionally been used to heal cradle cap. It is also suggested for radiation burns, sunburn, atopic dermatitis, and post-partum wounds.

When applied to the skin, St. John’s Wort treats burns and scrapes by boosting blood flow to the affected area. In creams, it helps keep open wounds clean by killing microorganisms. It has also been known to help soothe sensitive skin. It can help hydrate and firm skin.

Please do not use it during pregnancy, nor in the sun or sunbeds.

Sea Buckthorn Seed (Hippophae rhamnoides) –

The seed produces a yellow-orange oil, while the berry has a dark red hue. They are both fabulous, but the seed is easier to use in higher quantities because of less coloration staining. Sea buckthorn seed oil is rich in linoleic acid (Omega-6 fatty acid), alpha-linolenic acid (Omega-3 fatty acid), and oleic acid (Omega-9 fatty acid).

It also contains tocopherols (vitamin E), phytosterols, and various antioxidants. Known for its anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and regenerative properties, sea buckthorn seed oil is frequently used in skincare formulations to hydrate the skin, reduce inflammation, and promote skin regeneration. Because of its high content of essential fatty acids and antioxidants, this oil is particularly effective in treating dry, sensitive, and aging skin.

Apoterra.com says, “Sea buckthorn seed oil contains omega-3 and 6 in an almost perfect ratio along with omega nine and is better suited for dry and mature skin.”

Sea buckthorn seed can be used for anything from acne to aging. This is a fabulous, valuable carrier oil. It is excellent for burns, eczema, rosacea, acne, and psoriasis. It is used with rosehip seed in the best anti-aging cosmetics. It has slight sunscreen properties. It is one of the few carrier oils I can use on my face and not react to.

Sesame oil’s popularity is closely tied to the growing interest in Ayurvedic medicine, where it’s utilized for various health and beauty purposes. It’s employed in dental care to combat tooth plaque, used as nasal drops to alleviate sinusitis, applied as a sunblock, and firming facial skin. Ryman suggests its efficacy as an after-sun skin treatment.

Hlagro.com highlights the benefits of sesame seed oil for skincare, noting, “Sesame seed oil can be part of your everyday beauty routine since it clears and cleanses facial skin. The seeds and sesame oil are packed with zinc, which produces collagen and helps remove skin damage and irregularities.”

Sesame oil, rich in oleic and linoleic fatty acids, is a nourishing choice for the skin. It aids in hydration and maintains skin health. Sesame seed oil is rich in linoleic acid (Omega-6 fatty acid), oleic acid (Omega-9 fatty acid), and palmitic acid. It also contains high levels of antioxidants such as sesamin, sesamol, and vitamin E.

Known for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties, sesame seed oil is widely used in skincare and haircare formulations to hydrate the skin, reduce inflammation, and protect against environmental damage. Because of its high content of essential fatty acids and antioxidants, this oil is particularly effective in treating dry and mature skin. Sesame seed oil is typically light to medium yellow and has a medium-weight texture, but it feels rather greasy.

Beyond its facial skincare benefits, sesame oil is also a remedy for cracked skin, especially on the heels. A nightly regimen of massaging the oil into the heels and covering them with cotton socks can promote soft, healthy skin over time.

Do not use the toasted variety of sesame seeds for skincare.

SoyaBean-(Glycine max)

Soybean oil is exceptionally high in lecithin, sterolins, and vitamin E, making it an effective moisturizer. It also contains linoleic, oleic, and palmitic acids. Known for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties, soybean oil is frequently used in skincare and haircare formulations to hydrate the skin, reduce inflammation, and protect against environmental damage. Because of its high content of essential fatty acids and antioxidants, this oil is particularly effective in treating dry and mature skin. Soya bean oil might clog pores, so be careful if you have acne.

Organic soya Bean Oil is becoming increasingly popular with massage therapists because of its light consistency. It is considered an excellent alternative to Almond Sweet. It is also commonly used in bath oil, skincare, hair care, and soap-making formulations.

Please make sure you get a non-GMO, preferably organic soya oil. Maybe a skin sensitizer- Wildwood pg. 37. Ensure you do not have a soya allergy before using.

Strawberry Seed Oil- (Fragaria ananassa)

Extracted through cold pressing from strawberry seeds, the strawberry seed oil is a pure, unrefined oil known for its greenish-to-yellowish colour and delightful sweet scent.

Its growing popularity in the cosmetic and personal care sectors is attributed to its abundant Omega-3 fatty acids, particularly linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids. This virgin oil is celebrated for its anti-aging benefits, offering a rich blend of Omega-6 and 9 fatty acids. However, the ellagic acid content captivates attention; this potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent aids collagen preservation and skin brightening.

Additionally, strawberry seed oil’s vitamin E content is crucial in healing and safeguarding the skin’s barrier, making it a valued ingredient for nurturing and protecting the skin.

Sunflower Seed (Helianthus annuus)-

Sunflower seed oil has several potential benefits in cosmetics and skin care products, including working as an emollient, supporting the skin’s barrier, soothing skin, and promoting hair growth. This carrier oil is used for scaly dermatitis, skin sores, and rheumatism. Sunflower seed oil is rich in linoleic acid (Omega-6 fatty acid), oleic acid (Omega-9 fatty acid), and palmitic acid. It also contains high levels of vitamin E and beta-carotene. Vitamin E helps with premature aging and wrinkles.

Known for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and skin barrier-enhancing properties, sunflower seed oil is frequently used in skincare formulations to reduce inflammation and improve skin texture. This oil is particularly effective in treating dry and sensitive skin because of its high content of essential fatty acids and antioxidants. Sunflower seed oil is typically light yellow. It is a reasonably priced oil that is relatively stable.

If you have a ragweed allergy, this plant might be a skin sensitizer or even cause histamine reactions.

Watermelon Seed Oil (Citrullus lanatus)

Wheat germ- (Triticum species)-

This yellowish-orange carrier oil is good for prematurely aged and dehydrated skin. Wheat germ oil is rich in linoleic acid (Omega-6 fatty acid), oleic acid (Omega-9 fatty acid), and palmitic acid. It also contains high levels of vitamin E, which is a potent antioxidant, along with vitamins A, D, and B complex.

Known for its regenerative, moisturizing, and antioxidant properties, wheat germ oil is frequently used in skincare formulations to hydrate the skin, reduce inflammation, and protect against oxidative damage. Because of its high content of essential fatty acids and antioxidants, this oil is particularly effective in treating dry and mature skin. Wheat germ oil is typically golden yellow to amber and has a thick, viscous texture.

Use wheat germ with care if you are allergic to wheat or gluten. It can go rancid quickly.

PLANT BUTTERS & WAXES

Before you start, know that Plant Butters can be grainy. A few tricks for working with them to make them creamier are:

1. Some types of butter must be brought to 175 Fahrenheit, slow and low, possibly in a double boiler.
   Keep the butter at that higher temperature for 20 minutes to stabilize.

2. Plant butter, especially shea, can crystalize when it cools too slowly, so placing it in a fridge, which speeds up the cool-down process, can be helpful.

3. Whipping your plant butter mix is another way to change the texture. Whip your butter after it cools down.

It’s a bit complicated, but those are the main reasons for graininess.

Beeswax– (Cere alba)- bleached or unbleached
This wax—formed from the worker bees—is helpful in many skin formulas as a thickener. It is comprised mainly of esters of fatty acids and long-chain alcohols. Aromatherapists use beeswax to thicken creams and make lip balms, soaps, and candles.

Cocoa Butter (Theobroma cacao) –
Cocoa butter is the fat from the cocoa bean. It smells a bit like cocoa and is used to make white chocolate. It is my husband’s favourite type of “chocolate.” As a butter, it is a delightful moisturizer for stretch marks, alopecia, and lip balms. It is very rich and good in formulas for dry, mature skin. It helps thicken body care products. Rosemary Gladstar, pg. 122 says that if you get small tapioca-like kernels in your cream, this is an indication that you’ve added too much cocoa butter to your formula.

Illipe Butter- (Shorea stenoptera), also called Borneo Tallow-
It is similar to cocoa butter in its texture and skin-soothing properties. Donna Maria pg. 42

Illipe butter, derived from the nuts of the Shorea stenoptera tree, is a rich, creamy butter known for its high content of beneficial fatty acids. This butter predominantly comprises stearic, oleic, palmitic, and linoleic acids, contributing to its excellent moisturizing properties. Stearic acid, in particular, helps to harden and stabilize formulations, making illipe butter an ideal ingredient in various cosmetic products. Its high melting point, similar to cocoa butter, allows for the creation of firmer products such as soaps, balms, and lotions.

In cosmetic formulations, illipe butter is prized for restoring skin elasticity, making it a popular choice in anti-aging products and treatments for dry, damaged skin. Its emollient properties hydrate and soften the skin, improving overall texture and appearance. Additionally, illipe butter is often used in hair care products to nourish and repair dry, brittle hair, enhancing shine and manageability.

Kokum Kernel Butter (Garcinia indica)

Kokum butter is derived from the seeds of the Garcinia indica tree, also known as the red mango or kokum tree, which is native to India. It is one of the hardest vegetable fats, known for its stability and high melting point. This butter is an odourless and highly effective skin lubricant, providing excellent emollient properties. Kokum butter is rich in essential fatty acids, such as stearic and oleic acids, which nourish and moisturize the skin. It is commonly used in cosmetic formulations, including lotions, lip balms, and body butter, to enhance texture and provide long-lasting hydration.

Sources:

• Better Shea Butter. “Illipe Butter Benefits and Uses in Skincare Products.” Retrieved from Better Shea Butter
• The Soap Kitchen. “Kokum Butter.” Retrieved from The Soap Kitchen

Mango Seed Butter– (Mangifera indica)-

Mango seed butter, extracted from the seeds of the Mangifera indica tree, is a solid butter at room temperature known for its superior moisturizing properties. This butter is rich in vitamins A, C, and E, contributing to its antioxidant benefits. The high content of stearic and oleic acids makes mango seed butter effective in softening and soothing the skin. It is widely used in creams, lotions, and hair products to provide deep hydration and improve skin and hair texture. Mango seed butter is particularly beneficial for treating dry and damaged skin, enhancing its elasticity and smoothness.

Sources:

• Nature’s Garden. “Mango Butter Benefits.” Retrieved from Nature’s Garden.
• Byrdie. “Mango Butter: Benefits for Skin, How to Use It, and More.” Retrieved from Byrdie

Mango seed butter is quite solid at room temperature. It is a very moisturizing butter.

Shea Butter (Vitellaria paradoxa)-
Shea butter is obtained from the nuts of the Vitellaria paradoxa tree. This is a highly moisturizing butter. Rich in vitamins A and E and essential fatty acids, shea butter protects and nourishes the skin. It is used frequently in cosmetic-making, as it is relatively soft, easy to deal with, and very nurturing for the skin and hair. Shea is healing for dry, damaged hair and skin. This emollient butter is used in the cosmetic industry for making lip gloss, hair conditioners, and soap. It is suitable for dry, brittle hair and skin. It is used to protect the skin against ultraviolet rays. It is massaged into joints to relieve pain. It is also used to help alleviate sinusitis and nasal congestion. Additionally, shea butter protects the skin against ultraviolet rays, relieves joint pain when massaged into the joints, and helps alleviate sinusitis and nasal congestion. Its versatile benefits make it suitable for dry, brittle hair and skin.

Sources:

• Healthline. “Shea Butter for Skin: Benefits, Uses, and More.” Retrieved from Healthline
• Byrdie. “Shea Butter: Benefits, Uses, and Tips.” Retrieved from Byrdie

Converting a Skin Care Recipe: Use Weight Rather than Volume for More Accuracy for Cosmetic Making

Changing from Percentage to Grams

The percentage measurements used in the Practical Potions Introductory Course for at-home cosmetic making will now be changed to using weight rather than volume. This becomes practical to allow more accurate measurements for more professional formulas. Working with weight, not volume becomes helpful if you sell a product.

You will need to invest in one or two scales. I use a sensitive scale from a “pot shop” to weigh very light ingredients and a slightly larger scale to weigh heavier items, like water and hydrosols.  Also, learning how to convert a recipe from percentages to grams becomes important. It is like moving from home cooking skills to becoming a refined baker.

This technique will allow you to scale your recipe from a small to a large batch, whether you’re making 100 or 1000 grams, and it guarantees accuracy every time. I stick with 100 or 1000 grams, which is an easy measurement. Adopting professional measurement methods becomes vital as you advance to avoid inconsistencies and even safety issues.

Simple blends using carriers and essential oils, such as those we made in Practical Potions 1, rarely required this method.

To convert recipe percentages to grams using our standard 100 or 1000-gram batches, multiply the product’s total weight (100 or 1000 g) by the percentage of each ingredient. For example, if an ingredient makes up 3% of a 100-gram recipe, multiply 100 g by 0.03, which equals 3 grams. Do this for each component, ensuring the total adds up to 100%.

At first, this might seem complex, but as you practice with your recipes, you’ll find it intuitive and incredibly useful for scaling up any recipe you wish to create.

As we advance through the program, I will explain the equipment and this technique.

A FEW COSMETIC MAKING INGREDIENTS

Apple Cider Vinegar–
This vinegar is rich in alpha-hydroxy acids. Add a tsp. to your mask formula or 1 tsp. Of organic apple cider to 1 Tbsp of water for a morning face wash. It is suitable for deterring acne. It can also be dabbed onto herpes to prevent growth.

Borax–
Sodium borate is a natural mineral mined from only a few places worldwide. It softens water, cleanses, and suspends soap particles in water so they don’t stick to the skin or clog the pores. It is used in making cleaning products.

Clay-
Clay is mined from the earth. There are many types of clay,

Bentonite Clay comes from various regions around the world. They are all used for slightly different purposes, but in facial masks, to draw impurities out of the skin. The colour of the clay is influenced by the type of minerals it contains.

Green Clay is suitable for cosmetics and oily skin. Useful for masks.

Red Clay– iron gives this clay its reddish colour. It is drying, helps draw out poison oak and ivy, and heals some rashes. Gladstar pg. 121.

White Clay is versatile, mild, and less drying than other clays. White clay is used for skin masks, powder and bath salts. White clay leaves less messy residue in the sink and bathtub for masks and other products.

Glycerine Vegetable Based–
Glycerine is a natural humectant that draws moisture to the skin. Add it to lotions, creams, cleansers, hair care products, and soaps. It is often used in the water phase when making lotions and cosmetics. It is sticky, so use 3% of your creation at most.

Lanolin–
Anhydrous (contains no water)-
This thick substance is extracted from sheep’s wool and used as an emulsifier to thicken cosmetics. Hydrolyzed lanolin is odourless but heavily processed. If you have a wool allergy, you will probably react to lanolin. In that case, please do not use it to make cosmetics and avoid all products that contain it.

Lecithin–
A thick, sticky substance extracted from egg yolks and soybeans acts as an emulsifier and will add yellow to your product. It was used in all the older skin cream recipes to hold the oil and water components together. It is very effective.

Propanediol 1,3- Humectant
Windy Point Soap Making says Propanediol 1,3 is a natural, skin-friendly preservative-boosting humectant. It is derived and made from renewable corn sugar fermentation. It has excellent sensory characteristics and is environmentally sustainable. Propanediol 1,3 can replace propylene glycol, butylene glycol, or glycerin in formulations. It is a humectant, emollient, skin penetration enhancer, and solvent. It boosts preservative efficacy, improves skin moisturization, and is 100% natural.
Propanediol 1,3 can be used in creams, lotions, shampoos, conditioners, sun care products, and skin treatments. The Usage Rate is 1-10%, added to the water phase of your product. If you use too much, the texture of your product will become sticky.

Rosemary Extract-
Rosemary Antioxidant, or Rosemary Oil Extract (ROE), is a pure antioxidant taken from rosemary leaves by carbon dioxide extraction. It has the characteristic odour of rosemary. As a natural antioxidant, its most outstanding advantage is its ability to dissolve in and stabilize various oils such as soybean, peanut, sunflower seed, and others.
Rosemary Antioxidant is a high-performance ingredient, 100% oil-soluble, and a safe liquid extract. It contains 10% diterpene phenols and acids and is GMO-free.

Usage:
We use rosemary extract and Vitamin E as an antioxidant in any oil- or water-based product we create.
(The following write-up is from New Directions, Aromatics, and this is one place you can buy Rosemary Extract, an essential ingredient for product creation.
As an antioxidant, it is used in various carrier oils to prolong their shelf lives.
• 100% soluble in most vegetable oils, even at low temperatures.
• It is uniform and very stable, and there is no deposition at any temperature. It remains stable even at temperatures higher than 200 °C.
• The carnosic acid content of Rosemary antioxidant is 7 – 7.5%.
• It has a very light characteristic rosemary odour but should not have a noticeable effect on the final product.
• Recommended usage: 0.02 ~ 0.5%.
• This product can be added directly to liquid products.
• Once opened, it should be used up within two months. Otherwise, if kept sealed and stored correctly, it will last 18 months.
• Compounding procedures: When using, mix well with the other product. It will not be effective when used in products with a pH value higher than 8.5.

Vitamin E- (Tocopherol) From New Directions, Aromatics
We use either Vitamin E Mt-50, & or Rosemary Extract as an antioxidant when creating any product with an oil base, such as creams and lotions. We also use a preservative if the product has a water component.

New Directions Aromatics gives the following write-up. MT-50 Vitamin E is a golden yellow to reddish, viscous oil with a slightly characteristic vegetable oil aroma. It may oxidize upon exposure to air and light, resulting in gradual darkening. It may add a tint of colour to skincare formulations. This form of Vitamin E is GMO-free and gluten-free.
Studies have shown that Vitamin E protects the skin from environmental factors. The d-alpha-tocopherol in Vitamin E is also known to help reduce the appearance of fine lines. For cosmetics, Vitamin E (MT-50 Full-Spectrum) is a natural antioxidant with a full spectrum of tocopherols, extending the oils’ shelf-life. Any product with water in it also requires a full-spectrum preservative. Adding 0.5% to a carrier oil will extend its life. A minimum of 2% is added to the formulation to utilize its benefits to the skin.
Vitamin E should not be applied directly to the skin, as it is explicitly designed as a cosmetic ingredient.
Constituents: 50% vitamin E (d-alpha tocopherol, d-beta tocopherol, d-gamma tocopherol, d-delta tocopherol) and 50% refined soybean oil (GMO-Free).
Solubility: Vitamin E MT-50 is soluble in ethanol, ether, acetone, fats, and vegetable oils. It is insoluble in water.
Cautions: Keep tightly closed in a cool, dark, dry area as Vitamin E is subjected to oxidization. If your Tocopherol is made from soy or sunflower, ensure allergies to these plants are not a problem.

Thickeners and Gums-

Acacia Gum

Acacia gum, also known as gum Arabic, is a natural gum made from the hardened sap of acacia trees. It acts as a film-forming agent, providing a smooth texture and stability to cosmetic formulations such as lotions and creams. Acacia gum is particularly effective in suspending particles in solutions, making it suitable for products like facial cleansers and serums. It also offers mild skin-tightening effects, which can be beneficial in anti-aging products.

Sources:

• Cosmetics Info. “Gum Arabic (Acacia Senegal) Overview.” Retrieved from Cosmetics Info.
• Byrdie. “The Benefits of Acacia Gum for Skin and Hair.” Retrieved from Byrdie

Konjac Root

Konjac root, derived from the tuber of the konjac plant, is rich in glucomannan, a polysaccharide that provides excellent thickening and hydrating properties for skincare products. It forms a protective barrier on the skin, locking in moisture and improving skin texture, making it ideal for hydrating masks and moisturizers. Unlike other gums, konjac root also has a gentle exfoliating effect, which helps to remove dead skin cells and promote a smooth complexion.

Sources:

• Paula’s Choice. “Konjac Root in Skincare.” Retrieved from Paula’s Choice.
• NaturallyCurly. “Benefits of Konjac Root for Skin and Hair.” Retrieved from NaturallyCurly

Tara Gum

Tara gum is extracted from the seeds of the tara tree and is used as a thickener and stabilizer in cosmetic formulations. It is known for its high viscosity and ability to improve the texture of creams and lotions, providing a smooth, rich feel. Tara gum has excellent moisture-retention properties, which help to hydrate the skin effectively. Unlike xanthan gum, tara gum provides a unique gel-like consistency that is beneficial in products like gel masks and moisturizing creams.

Sources:

• Making Cosmetics. “Tara Gum.” Retrieved from Making Cosmetics
• SpecialChem. “Tara Gum: Applications and Benefits in Cosmetics.” Retrieved from SpecialChem

Xanthan Gum

Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide produced through the fermentation of glucose or sucrose. It is widely used as a thickening and stabilizing agent in cosmetics, providing a smooth, even texture to products such as shampoos, conditioners, and lotions. Xanthan gum is known for its ability to stabilize emulsions and prevent ingredients from separating, making it ideal for products that require a uniform consistency. It is also more effective at low concentrations than other gums like konjac root and acacia gum.

This gum is a beautiful addition to many lotions and creams. You use a tiny percentage in the water phase. Mix it with glycerin or propanediol to hydrate before adding the rest of the water phase. It helps stabilize and thicken the water phase of creams and lotions. Windy Point Soap says Xanthan Gum is a natural thickener and emulsion stabilizer. It is soluble in water. It can be used at about 0.2% with Olivem 1000 to improve the stability of an emulsion. Typical usage rates for lotions and creams are 0.1 – 2.0%.

To disperse, please pour your required distilled water into a tall container. Create a vortex and add the Xanthan Gum using a stick blender (immersion blender). Once mixed, you can add your remaining Water Phase ingredients by stirring.

Sources:

• The Derm Review. “Xanthan Gum in Skincare.” Retrieved from The Derm Review.
• NaturallyCurly. “Xanthan Gum in Hair Products.” Retrieved from NaturallyCurly.

Summary of Differences Between the Gums

• Konjac Root: Best for hydrating and exfoliating masks and moisturizers because of its thickening and gentle exfoliating properties.
• Acacia Gum: Ideal for lotions and facial cleansers because of its film-forming and particle-suspending abilities.
• Tara Gum: Suitable for gel masks and moisturizing creams because of its high viscosity and moisture retention.
• Xanthan Gum is excellent for shampoos, conditioners, and lotions, providing stable emulsions and smooth textures. It is probably the most widely used gum; most people use it.

Sources:

• Paula’s Choice. “Konjac Root in Skincare.” Retrieved from Paula’s Choice.
• Cosmetics Info. “Gum Arabic (Acacia Senegal) Overview.” Retrieved from Cosmetics Info.

There is no download for carrier oils. Refer to this page, as we update it frequently because of so many new carriers being introduced to aromatherapy.

Northern Star College-