Essential Oils for the Skin

Orientation:

Start by listening to your animated guide, which will give you an overview of the lesson. Then, make your way to Aphrodite’s Classroom, right beside the Salon. Bring a beverage, your notebook and your laptop. It’s been a while since you’ve been here. Take time to relax in the surroundings, admire the exquisite surroundings and breathe in the sea air.

When you get situated, you can read the following chapter on essential oils for the skin, watch the videos, and download your Practical Potions Journal.

This page contains a few videos: one introducing you to the ship’s spa, another giving an overview of essential oils, and another with an aromatic witch sharing her recipe for using red thyme.

Here is part of your aromatic toolkit for working with the skin.

Carrier oils and hydrosols are also an important part of that kit. Each essential oil listed below carries its healing ability and cautions. Always dilute essential oils before applying them to the skin; they are too potent to be used neatly (undiluted).

Enjoy the many uses of essential oils for the skin!

Cautions Video:

Essential Oils are potent, so always use them carefully. Some can be fatal, even in small amounts, if taken internally. Avoid internal use. Do not use if pregnant, or consult an aromatherapist to see which ones can be used safely.

Check out your Practical Potions- Introductory Course for more cautions and properties of essential oils. Review the toxicology before proceeding.  https://www.northernstarcourses.com/lesson/d-toxicology-int…r-potions-safely/ ‎

Aromatherapy is an evolving field; only some things about how oils react with medicines and individual chemistry are understood, so always be cautious and monitor your reactions. *Note that infants, babies, and children are all used as synonyms rather than repeating them in each paragraph. Keep your oils away from children at all times. Avoid essential oils if you are pregnant or breastfeeding,

People sometimes also need to remember to protect their pets. Although they do not react the same way as people, they should not take the oils internally (and if they lick their coats, this would involve internal use). Diffusing oils around pets and animals can also be hazardous. Use essential oils sensibly and with respect, like any powerful healing agent.

Essential Oils should be diluted in a carrier oil or facial cream to a 0.2-1% strength before being applied to facial skin. Essential oils used on the body can be a little more potent, up to 5%, if the recipient is a non-allergic, healthy adult. However, watch the dermal limits for each essential oil, as they are all different. Also, remember that when you create formulas, the amount of chemical components in the oils is cumulative.

Essential Oils for Your Skin – Video:

Essential Oils for Skin

Angelica Root- Angelica archangelica-,” Umbelliferae

Steam-distilled roots and rhizomes. 3 Key Constituents: B-Phellandrene, a-Pinene (24-27%), a-Phellandrene (12-15%)(Lawrence 1979 p. 17, 1989 p. 10).

In skincare, it is often used to soothe irritated skin, reduce inflammation, and promote detoxification, making it beneficial for treating conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and acne. It also helps in rejuvenating dull, tired skin by improving circulation and promoting cell regeneration.

It is effective in treating skin infections, reducing inflammation, protecting against oxidative stress, and promoting skin and hair health.

In hair care, angelica root oil is valued for its ability to nourish the scalp, reduce dandruff, and promote healthy hair growth. Its calming aroma also provides stress-relief benefits, which can indirectly contribute to improved skin and hair health. Add a few drops to a carrier oil or facial cream for dull and congested skin. Angelica may help with psoriasis fungal infections and is an overall skin tonic. Sheppard-Hanger pg. 107.

Avoid if you have diabetes or are pregnant. Overuse may cause insomnia. Potential photosensitivity and allergenicity should be considered when incorporating it into cosmetic formulations. Please do not take it internally, nor use it with children.  Use a maximum level of 0.8%. Do not go into the sun or a sunbed for 12 hours after use.

Research:

Anti-inflammatory and Anti-Photoaging Properties
Study: Investigated the chemical composition and the anti-photoaging effects of Angelica pubescens oil (AO) in UV-B radiation-induced hairless mice.
Findings: The application of AO improved the condition of UV-B radiation-induced damaged skin by inhibiting the production of inflammatory cytokines, highlighting its potential use in skincare products to reduce inflammation and prevent photoaging (Chen et al., 2018).

Antifungal and Antimicrobial Activity
Study: Analyzed the chemical composition and antimicrobial activity of Angelica archangelica essential oil from central Italy.
Findings: The oil exhibited significant antimicrobial activity against various bacteria and fungi, making it suitable for treating skin infections and as a natural preservative in cosmetic formulations (Fraternale et al., 2014).

Antioxidant Properties
Study: Evaluated the antioxidant and neuroprotective activities of essential oil isolated from Angelica sinensis and Sophora flavescens in rats.
Findings: The essential oil significantly improved antioxidant enzyme levels and reduced oxidative stress, which helps protect the skin from environmental damage and aging (Li et al., 2012).

Anti-Inflammatory and Neuroprotective Effects
Study: Assessed the effects of Angelica archangelica essential oil on inflammation and neuroprotection in vitro.
Findings: The oil demonstrated significant anti-inflammatory properties by reducing proinflammatory cytokine levels and showed potential neuroprotective effects, suggesting its use in therapeutic formulations for inflammatory skin conditions (Fraternale et al., 2018).

Potential Issues
Photosensitivity: Angelica root oil can cause photosensitivity, meaning it may increase skin sensitivity to sunlight. Avoid sun exposure after applying products containing this oil to prevent skin irritation or burns.
Allergenicity: Some individuals may experience allergic reactions to angelica root essential oil. To ensure no adverse reactions, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this oil.

Basil Ocimum basilicum-Lamiaceae

In skincare, basil essential oil is used to treat acne, soothe irritated skin, and protect against environmental damage. Its antibacterial properties help in reducing the bacteria that cause acne, while its anti-inflammatory effects soothe redness and inflammation. Basil oil is also rich in antioxidants, which help protect the skin from free radical damage and premature aging.

In hair care, basil essential oil is valued for its ability to promote healthy hair growth, reduce dandruff, and add shine to the hair. It can stimulate blood circulation in the scalp, thereby encouraging hair growth and reducing hair loss.

Basil may be suitable for oily skin, mosquito and wasp bites, hair growth, eczema, acne, shingles, and herpes.

Please do not use it with hormone-sensitive cancers or internally. Use a maximum of 1% on the skin. Do not use during pregnancy, nursing, by infants, or over extended periods.

Bergamot-Citrus bergamia- Rutaceae

3 Key Constituents: (+)-Limonene (19-52%), Linalyl acetate (17-58%), Linalool, bergapten (0.44%).
Bertamot is commonly used for acne, boils, chickenpox, cold sores, and shingles. It may also help with psoriasis, pruritis, scabies, eczema, wounds, varicose veins, ulcers, and seborrhea of the skin and scalp and is an insect repellent (Sheppard-Hanger, pg. 167). Bergamot also softens dry, cracked skin.

In skincare, bergamot oil is also used to soothe irritated skin and balance oil production. Its antibacterial properties help reduce acne-causing bacteria, while its anti-inflammatory effects can calm redness and irritation. Additionally, bergamot oil has astringent properties that can help tighten pores and control sebum production.

In hair care, bergamot essential oil is valued for its ability to cleanse the scalp, reduce dandruff, and add shine to the hair. The oil’s refreshing citrus scent also provides aromatherapeutic benefits, promoting relaxation and reducing stress.

Bergamot oil is a natural deodorant that kills the bacteria responsible for odour. It has been used in dilution for vitiligo. Bergamot oil regulates sebum production, ensuring the skin’s oil levels stay harmonized, which is essential for those with an oily skin type. The distinct citrusy scent of Bergamot oil has mood-enhancing effects, which indirectly contribute to skin health by reducing stress—a known aggravator of skin issues like acne.

Phototoxic—Do not use when exposed to sunlight, sunbeds, or ultraviolet light. This can cause nasty burns. Bergamot may irritate sensitive skin. The maximum dermal level is 0.4%. Older oil should be avoided. Do not expose skin to sunlight or a sunbed for 12 hours after use.

Cabreuva- Myocarpus fastigiatus-

In skincare, cabreuva oil is used to treat a variety of skin conditions, including acne, eczema, and minor wounds, due to its ability to reduce inflammation and promote healing. The oil also contains antioxidants that help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

In hair care, cabreuva essential oil is valued for its potential to nourish the scalp, reduce dandruff, and promote healthy hair growth. Its warm, woody aroma also provides stress-relief benefits, contributing to overall skin and hair health. Cabreuva is sometimes used as a fixative in perfumery.

Toxicology unknown. Avoid with children and pregnancy. Non-phototoxic.

Research:

Study: Investigated chitosan-based emulsions functionalized with cabreuva essential oil for use in wound dressings.
Findings: The cabreuva essential oil, mainly composed of trans-nerolidol, showed antimicrobial properties and promoted cell regeneration without cytotoxicity, making it effective for treating minor wounds and burns.
Citation: Lamarra, J., Bucci, P., Giannuzzi, L., Montanari, J., Rivero, S., & Pinotti, A. (2020). Biomaterial-based dressings as vehicle for chitosan-encapsulated cabreuva essential oil: Cytotoxicity and regenerative activity. Reactive & Functional Polymers, 156, 104728.

Cade rectified- Juniperus oxycedrus- Coniferae

3 Key Constituents: delta-Cadinene, Torreyol (+ 3 other alcohols), Epicubenol (Tisserand p 222) 2000).

Historically, cade has been used on the skin to heal blemishes, cuts, scalp disease, dermatitis, eczema, scales, dandruff, hair loss, pimples, herpes, scabies, and lice. It may also be used to treat chronic skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and dermatitis due to its ability to reduce inflammation, fight infections, and promote healing. Additionally, it can help in reducing the appearance of wrinkles, improving skin firmness, and tightening the skin.

In hair care, cade essential oil is valued for its ability to treat scalp conditions such as dandruff and seborrhea, cleanse the scalp, and promote healthy hair growth. Its smoky, woody aroma also provides grounding and stress-relief benefits.

It may be a sensitizing agent, so if used, you must take time and do patch tests on small amounts of skin. Never use it on damaged skin. It can irritate the skin of those with allergies and inflamed conditions. It has a robust and tar-like odour. Please do not use it internally, when pregnant, or with children. Avoid unrectified cade, as it may be carcinogenic. Use less than 2% for the dermal limit.

Research:

Cajeput-Melaleuca cajeputi- Myrtaceae

3 Key Constituents: 1,8-Cineole, Alpha-Terpineol, p-Cymene (Motl et al. 1990; Milchard et al. 2004).

In skincare, cajeput oil is used to treat acne, soothe irritated skin, and promote wound healing due to its ability to reduce inflammation and fight infections. It is also known for its astringent properties, which help tighten the skin and reduce the appearance of pores.

In hair care, cajeput essential oil is valued for its ability to cleanse the scalp, reduce dandruff, and stimulate hair growth. The oil’s fresh, camphor-like scent also provides a cooling and invigorating effect, which can be beneficial in aromatherapy. Similar uses to tea tree include insect bites, oily skin, acne and radiation burns—caution in pregnancy.

Dilute before using. Please do not take it internally. Tisserand and Young say, “Essential oils high in 1.8 cineole can cause CNS and breathing problems in young children. Do not apply to or near the face of infants.” Do not use if pregnant, breastfeeding, or with pets. There is a low risk of sensitization or phototoxicity (Tisserand, pg. 224). Old, oxidized oil is very irritating to the skin. Please do not use it in acute inflammation due to its warm, stimulating nature.

Research:
Study: Compared the skin irritation levels between topical cajeput oil and telon oil in a pilot study.
Findings: The study found that cajeput oil caused the highest levels of skin irritation compared to telon oil and alcohol, suggesting it should be used with caution to avoid skin irritation.
Citation: Ilona, S. E., Cahyono, A., Ellistasari, E. Y., Irawanto, M., & Kariosentono, H. (2018). The comparison of skin irritation level between topical cajeput oil and telon oil: A pilot study. Journal of General-Procedural Dermatology & Venereology Indonesia.

Study: Investigated the sunscreen and anti-tyrosinase effects of microemulsion extract from Melaleuca cajeputi essential oil using nonionic surfactants.
Findings: The study showed that microemulsions of cajeput oil exhibited good UV-B absorption, indicating potential use as a sunscreen in cosmeceutical products. Citation: Sainorudin, M. H., Rozaini, M. Z. H., Hamzah, H., Saupi, A. A. M., Norazemi, N. F., Ismail, Z., Ying, J. S. P., Ibrahim, N., & Zain, M. (2015). Preliminary Study of Sunscreen and Anti-Tyrosinase Effect on Microemulsion Extract from Melaleuca cajuputi Essential Oil using Nonionic Surfactant. GSTF Journal of Chemical Sciences (JChem).

Caraway– Carum carvi- Umbelliferae

3 Key Constituents: (+)-Carvone, (+)-Limonene, B-Myrcene-(Lawrence 1995 g p. 202c p. 58-59)

In skincare, caraway oil is used to treat acne, soothe irritated skin, and combat signs of aging due to its ability to reduce inflammation, fight bacterial infections, and protect against oxidative stress. Additionally, its astringent properties help tighten the skin and reduce the appearance of pores.

In hair care, caraway essential oil is valued for its ability to cleanse the scalp, reduce dandruff, and promote healthy hair growth. The oil’s warm, spicy aroma also provides therapeutic benefits, such as reducing stress and anxiety. Caraway is sometimes recommended as a tissue regenerator for oily skin. It can be used for bruises, boils, wounds, acne, itchy scalp, scabies, and cellulite. Sheppard-Hanger, pg. 139.

Caraway may irritate sensitive skin. Skin sensitizer if oxidized. Please keep it in an airtight container in a refrigerator. Use up to 1.2% in blends on the skin.  Maybe neurotoxic and abortive at high doses.  Avoid caraway if pregnant, with babies, children and pets. Please do not take it internally.

Carrot Seed– Daucus carota- Umbelliferae

3 Key Constituents: Carotol (36-73%), A-pinene, dauca-4,8-diene-(Mazzoni et al 1999).

Use in small amounts in skin creams. It has skin-regenerating qualities and may improve the tone and elasticity of the skin. It is very healing for many skin conditions. This oil smells very “carroty,” so be careful with quantities used when blending, as it can easily overwhelm your creation. Eczema boils, couperose, callouses, boils and mature skin.  Sheppard-Hanger pg. 139

Carrot seed oil is used to rejuvenate and repair the skin, reduce the appearance of scars and wrinkles, and promote a healthy, glowing complexion. Its rich content of carotol, beta-carotene, and vitamins A and E help to protect the skin from environmental damage, stimulate cell regeneration, and improve overall skin tone and elasticity.

In hair care, carrot seed essential oil is valued for its ability to nourish the scalp, strengthen hair roots, and promote hair growth. Improves the tone and elasticity of the skin. Carrot seed is also helpful for stretch marks, UV damage, dermatitis, rashes and skin discoloration.  It may be used to treat precancerous skin conditions and ulcerated skin. Purchon and Cantele pg. 43. For fungal infections, combine with lemongrass and geranium. It is helpful for eczema and psoriasis as it may stimulate kidney function. Useful in acne, impetigo and rosacea, and fungal infections, including tinea, athlete’s foot, ringworm and jock itch.

Avoid it when pregnant and breastfeeding. Note- Carrot seed essential oil differs from carrot tissue carrier oil. A maximum dermal use of 13.9% Tisserand and Young pg. 233.

Research:

5 Benefits of Carrot Seed Oil for Skin & Hair
Conclusion: Carrot seed oil contains anti-inflammatory properties that help to soothe and heal irritated or damaged skin, reduce redness, swelling, and inflammation, and promote faster wound and scar healing. It also supports hair health by promoting healthy hair growth and improving hair texture.
Citation: 5 Benefits of Carrot Seed Oil for Skin & Hair – Clinikally

Carrot Seed Oil Benefits for Skin, Hair & More
Conclusion: Carrot seed oil can be included in skincare products as a skin-protecting agent. It’s also useful for natural hair moisturizing and strengthening.
Citation: Carrot Seed Oil Benefits for Skin, Hair & More – Dr. Axe

Carrot Seed Oil – Benefits For Revitalized And Healthy Skin & Hair
Conclusion: Carrot seed essential oil helps in the healing of infected skin and wounds, soothes sore throats, and promotes healthy hair growth.
Citation: Carrot Seed Oil – Benefits For Revitalized And Healthy Skin & Hair – New Directions Aromatics

Catnip-Nepeta cataria-Lamiaceae

In skin care, catnip oil can soothe irritated skin, reduce inflammation, and manage conditions such as eczema and dermatitis. Its calming properties make it suitable for sensitive skin. In hair care, catnip essential oil can help reduce dandruff and promote a healthy scalp.

Additionally, catnip oil is well-known for its effectiveness as a natural insect repellent, particularly against mosquitoes and other biting insects. Although this oil is primarily used as an insect repellent, cats love it. Be careful about what felines you attract!

Cedarwood Atlas Cedrus atlantica- Coniferae

3 Key Constituents: Beta-Himachalene (31-40%), alpha-Himachalene (10-16%), (E)-alpha-Atlantone (Aberchane and Fechtal, 2004).

In skin care, cedarwood Atlas oil is used to treat acne, soothe irritated skin, and improve skin tone due to its ability to reduce inflammation and fight bacterial infections. Its astringent properties help tighten the skin and reduce the appearance of pores.

In hair care, cedarwood Atlas essential oil is valued for its ability to strengthen hair, reduce dandruff, and promote hair growth. The oil’s warm, woody aroma also provides calming and grounding effects, beneficial in aromatherapy. Cedarwood Atlas may benefit mature and damaged skin. Dilute and use it on acne, oily skin, fungus, scabs, pus, and chronic dermatosis. It may also help with hair loss and cellulite and reduce spider veins and scars.

It is non—phototoxic and non-sensitizing—Tisserand and Young. Avoid it if you are pregnant, breastfeeding, or with pets. Please do not use it internally.

Research:

Cedarwood Essential Oil: Benefits, Risks, and Uses
Conclusion: Cedarwood essential oil, including Atlas cedarwood, is known for its benefits in improving skin health, promoting hair growth, and relieving tension. It is also used for facial treatments and alopecia.
Citation: Cedarwood Essential Oil: Benefits, Risks, and Uses – WebMD

Cedar Red- Juniperus virginiana- Coniferae

3 Key Constituents: alpha-Cedrene, Thujopsene, Cedrol (Lawrence 1998e p. 67-68)
Red Cedar is traditionally used for acne, dandruff, oily skin, psoriasis, scabs, pus and hemorrhoids, soothe irritated skin, and improve skin tone due to its ability to reduce inflammation and fight bacterial infections. Its astringent properties help tighten the skin and reduce the appearance of pores.

In hair care, cedarwood red essential oil is valued for its ability to strengthen hair, reduce dandruff, and promote hair growth. The oil’s warm, woody aroma also provides calming and grounding effects, beneficial in aromatherapy.

However, it can cause skin reactions in those with dermatitis. Avoid this oil if you are pregnant, breastfeeding, or with pets. It is toxic if taken internally. Red Cedar may be an abortifacient. Atlas Cedarwood is safer.

Cedarwood, Texas- Juniperus ashei- Coniferae

3 Key Constituents: Thuopsene, alpha-Cedrene, Cedrol (Lawrence 1998e p. 67-68)

Cedarwood Texas oil is used to treat acne, soothe irritated skin, and improve skin tone due to its ability to reduce inflammation and fight bacterial infections. Its astringent properties help tighten the skin and reduce the appearance of pores.

In hair care, Cedarwood Texas essential oil is valued for its ability to strengthen hair, reduce dandruff, and promote hair growth. It has been used to regulate oily skin and acne and as an insect repellent. It aids meditation.

However, it can irritate the skin. Tisserand and Young reported one case in which someone with eczema was reacting to Cedarwood, Texas. Avoid it if you are pregnant, breastfeeding, or with pets. Do not use it internally.

Celery Seed– Apium graveolens- Umbelliferae

Celery seed oil is used in skincare to reduce the appearance of cellulite, soothe irritated skin, and promote detoxification. Its ability to improve circulation and eliminate toxins makes it effective for treating skin conditions associated with fluid retention and poor circulation.

In hair care, celery seed essential oil can help to nourish the scalp, reduce dandruff, and promote healthy hair growth. Additionally, its fresh, herbaceous aroma provides calming and relaxing effects, beneficial in aromatherapy.

Celery seed has been historically used for rheumatoid arthritis and cellulite. Do not take it internally. Avoid if pregnant, breastfeeding or with pets. Skin sensitizer if the oil is oxidized. Non-phototoxic.

Chamomile Mixta– Ormensis multicaulis- Compositae

In skincare, chamomile Mixta oil is used to treat conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and sensitive skin due to its ability to reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation. It also has antioxidant properties that help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

In hair care, chamomile Mixta essential oil is valued for its ability to soothe the scalp, reduce dandruff, and enhance hair shine. Try this oil for sensitive and dry skin or eczema. This family of plants can cause allergies and asthma in some people. Avoid if pregnant.

Chamomile, German– Matricaria recutita-

A high level of chamazulene gives German chamomile its distinctive blue colour. Only a little is needed. German Chamomile Essential Oil primarily consists of sesquiterpene compounds like α-bisabolol, its oxides, and azulenes, including chamazulene. α-Bisabolol is noted for its analgesic, antibiotic, and anti-inflammatory properties.

German chamomile oil is used to treat conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and sensitive skin due to its ability to reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation. The oil’s high content of chamazulene and alpha-bisabolol contributes to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it effective in calming and healing the skin.

In hair care, German chamomile essential oil is valued for its ability to soothe the scalp, reduce dandruff, and enhance hair shine. The oil is effective in relieving itching (antipruritic) and reducing genetic damage to cells (antigenotoxic) and also exhibits antimicrobial, antifungal, and antioxidant activities.

German Chamomile is often used for skin rosacea. It is useful for many skin conditions, allergies, boils, burns, cuts, dermatitis, eczema, rashes, rosacea, inflamed capillaries and skin wounds (Wildwood, pg. 259). It is reportedly superb for leg ulcers (Sheppard-Hanger, pg. 275). It regenerates skin tissue.

Please do not use it when pregnant or with infants.  No internal use. Test for allergies – Be careful if you have a ragweed allergy. It can cause interactions with drugs if taken orally.

Research:
Anti-inflammatory and Anti-allergic Effects
A study published in the Journal of Essential Oil Bearing Plants examined German chamomile essential oil’s anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic effects. The study found that both volatile and non-volatile components of German chamomile significantly inhibited inflammation and allergic reactions in animal models. The essential oil notably reduced swelling, increased capillary permeability, and itching reactions, demonstrating its strong anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic properties (Wu, Xu, & Yao, 2011).
Conclusion: German chamomile essential oil has significant anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic effects, making it valuable for treating conditions like eczema and sensitive skin.

Chamomile, Roman- Chamaemelum nobile or -Anthemis nobilis

It is beneficial for all skin types, especially hypersensitive skin. The three Key Constituents are isobutyl angelate, Butyl Angelate, and 3-methylpentyl angulate (Chialva et al. 1982; Srinivas 1986; Zani et al. 1991; Lawrence 1998f p.49).

Roman Chamomile is my favourite essential oil for healing the skin. It is anti-inflammatory and restorative. It can be used for acne, allergies, boils, burns, and cuts. It is fabulous for dry itchy skin, dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis, hypersensitive skin, broken veins, and inflammations.

The oil’s high content of esters like isobutyl angelate and anti-inflammatory compounds such as alpha-bisabolol make it effective in calming and healing the skin. Roman chamomile is a skin repair kit unto itself! It is used on the skin for puffiness and itch and to strengthen and tighten tissue. In the bath, it can be soothing and rebalancing to the vagina.

In hair care, Roman chamomile essential oil is valued for its ability to soothe the scalp, reduce dandruff, and enhance hair shine.

Chamaemelum nobile is antibacterial and helpful for diaper rash when diluted with calendula carrier oil. Avoid in the first trimester of pregnancy. People allergic to ragweed should be careful of an allergic reaction. Tisserand and Young, on page 245, say it is unlikely to cause harm in aromatherapy.

Research:

The Benefits of Chamomile Oil: The Gentle Giant
Conclusion: Chamomile oil, particularly Roman chamomile, is known for its calming effects and anti-inflammatory properties. It is beneficial for managing sensitive skin, reducing skin inflammation, and promoting wound healing. Its antioxidant properties also help protect the skin from environmental stressors.
Citation: The Benefits of Chamomile Oil: The Gentle Giant – Purodem

Chamomile (Roman) Essential Oil
Conclusion: Roman chamomile essential oil helps soothe and calm skin allergies such as eczema and assists in wound healing. It is often used in skin and hair care products.
Citation: Chamomile (Roman) Essential Oil – Naturallythinking

Soothe Acne, Redness, and Signs of Aging With Chamomile
Conclusion: Chamomile may aid in wound healing and soothe sensitive skin. It is commonly found in serums, sprays, lotions, and peels.
Citation: Soothe Acne, Redness, and Signs of Aging With Chamomile – Healthline

Cistus  Cistus ladaniferus– Cistaceae

Cistus oil is derived from the leaves of the rock rose. It is used to tighten the skin, reduce the appearance of pores, and accelerate the healing of wounds and scars. It is helpful for wrinkled, mature skin, as well as inflamed, irritated, and acne-afflicted skin. Additionally, the oil’s antioxidant properties help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

In hair care, cistus essential oil can help soothe the scalp, reduce dandruff, and promote healthy hair growth.

Its warm, resinous aroma also provides calming and grounding effects, which are beneficial in aromatherapy. Avoid with babies and children and when pregnant. Please do not use it internally. Skin sensitization to older oils if oxidized.

Citronella– Cymbopogon flexuosus- Graminae

3 Key Constituents: Citronellal, Geraniol, (-)-Citronellal. (Wijesekera 1973; Bruns et al 1981; Carlin et al 1988; Laurence 1989 p. 31; Zhu et al 1993 p. 112).
Citronella is helpful as an insect repellent and deodorizer. It also minimizes perspiration. Moreover, it has diaphoretic properties that may promote the removal of toxins from the body by increasing sweating​ (Organic Facts). https://www.organicfacts.net/health-benefits/essential-oils/health-benefits-of-citronella-essential-oil.html

Citronella oil, due to its antimicrobial properties, is used to treat oily skin, acne, and minor skin infections. It can help balance oil production and reduce inflammation. Additionally, citronella oil is effective in soothing insect bites and preventing infections.

Citronella essential oil, with its antifungal and antibacterial properties, can help reduce dandruff and maintain a healthy scalp in hair care.

Avoid use on sensitive or damaged skin. Avoid it during pregnancy,  breastfeeding, with children and pets and do not take it internally—low risk of skin sensitization. Canada had decided to phase out citronella because it could contain methyl eugenol. Tisserand and Young, pg. 253. No other country is acting in such an extreme way. This decision was reversed, and at the moment, it is legal.

Clary Sage -Salvia sclarea- Lamiaceae

Clary is a very complex oil with around 250 constituents. 3 Key Constituents: Linalyl acetate (49-80%), Linalool (8-28%), Germacrene D. (Lawrence 1993 p. 106-108). Clary is a cellular regenerator that is beneficial for aging skin, oily skin, acne, boils,  inflamed skin, and wrinkles. It is also known to help regulate sebum production, making it beneficial for both oily and dry skin types.

Clary has deodorant properties and may decrease sweating.

The oil shows additive and synergistic effects against pathogenic wound bacteria in combination with antibiotics. Sienkiewicz M et al, Burns 2017 43(2): 310-17.

In hair care, clary sage essential oil can promote healthy hair growth, reduce dandruff, and maintain a healthy scalp. It has some fluid and hormonal-regulating properties, making it practical for PMS and perimenopausal symptoms.

Avoid Clary Sage with breast and ovarian cysts and hormone-sensitive cancers. It may also exaggerate the effect of alcohol, so do not use it when drinking. Avoid it when pregnant, and do not use it internally. Clary Absolute is a possible skin sensitizer. The essential oil is much safer for the skin (Tisserand and Young, pg. 253).

Research:

Clary Sage Oil – Uses & Benefits of a Soothing Stress Relieving Oil
Conclusion: Clary Sage essential oil is known for its ability to eliminate harmful bacteria, facilitate wound healing, and address muscle aches. It is also beneficial for skin and hair health.
Citation: Clary Sage Oil – Uses & Benefits of a Soothing Stress Relieving Oil – New Directions Aromatics

5 Benefits of Clary Sage Essential Oil
Conclusion: Clary Sage essential oil enhances the appearance and health of skin and hair. It is packed with antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that benefit the skin and hair.
Citation: 5 Benefits of Clary Sage Essential Oil – Shoprythm

Cypress– Cupressus sempervirens- Coniferae

3 Key Constituents: alpha-Pinene, delta-3-Carene, Cedrol (Lawrence 1979p. 18, 1989 p29-30 1995d. p.34)>
Cypress oil is rich in monoterpenes like alpha-pinene and carene, which contribute to its powerful astringent and tonic effects. This makes it particularly beneficial for tightening the skin, reducing the appearance of pores, and improving skin tone. Additionally, cypress oil is known for its ability to balance oily skin, treat acne, and soothe irritated skin.

Cypress is good for cellulite, varicose veins, and excessive perspiration. It is antibacterial and astringent, and it may help reduce spider veins and hemorrhoids.

It stimulates skin blood circulation. It tones oily skin, broken veins, coupe rose, rosacea, acne, and boils. Its drying effect helps with “boggy conditions” of the body, including lymphatic congestion.

Cypress may also reduce or stop external bleeding, making it a good wound oil. Purchon and Cantele p. 52

In hair care, cypress essential oil improves scalp health, reduces dandruff, and promotes healthy hair growth.

Avoid it during pregnancy, breastfeeding, with children, high blood pressure, high estrogen conditions, and hormone-sensitive cancers. Do not use it with pets or take it internally. If oxidized, cypress is a skin sensitizer. Keep oils in a cold, dark place. Tisserand p.265

Elemi – Canarium luzonicum- Burserasceae

This oil is rich in monoterpenes such as limonene, phellandrene, and elemol, which contribute to its powerful antiseptic and stimulating effects. Elemi oil is particularly noted for its ability to promote skin regeneration and reduce the appearance of scars and wrinkles. In skincare, it is used to enhance skin elasticity, improve skin tone, and accelerate wound healing.

It cools the skin and is said to heal and close wounds. It has traditionally been used for aged skin, inflammation, and wrinkles. Ancient Egyptians used elemi for embalming.

In hair care, Elemi essential oil helps to maintain a healthy scalp, reduce dandruff, and promote hair growth.  Its fresh, spicy-citrus aroma also provides uplifting and calming effects.

Avoid with babies, children, and pregnant women. This oil may cause some skin sensitivity. Avoid if oxidized. Maximum dermal use 6.7%, Tisserand and Young.

Research:

Cypress Essential Oil Uses and Benefits for Skin, Acne, Hair Growth
Conclusion: Cypress essential oil is ideal for health, skincare, and hair care. Its antibacterial properties make it effective for treating skin infections and promoting hair growth.
Citation: Cypress Essential Oil Uses and Benefits for Skin, Acne, Hair Growth – Isabella’s Clearly

Cypress Oil’s Powerhouse Benefits for Hair, Skin, and Well-being
Conclusion: Due to its antiseptic properties, cypress oil aids in the healing of minor wounds and cuts and helps prevent infections. It is also beneficial for hair and skin health.
Citation: Cypress Oil’s Powerhouse Benefits for Hair, Skin, and Well-being – Clinikally

All About Cypress Oil: Science, Benefits, Risks & How to Use It
Conclusion: Cypress essential oil is antimicrobial and antibacterial, making it effective for cleaning and healing cuts and wounds. It should be diluted before application to the skin.
Citation: All About Cypress Oil: Science, Benefits, Risks & How to Use It – Healthline

Fairy logic suggests that this is a rather long lesson. You may choose to take a break.

Eucalyptus globulus- Myrtaceae

3 Key Constituents: 1,8 Cineole, Alpha-Pinene, (+)-Limonene (Lawrence 1989 p199-200, 1993 p 122-125)

Eucalyptus has many respiratory uses but can also help the skin in cases of acne, burns, blisters, chickenpox, herpes,  measles, cold sores, cuts, insect bites, stings, and infections.

Euc. globulus increases the respiratory metabolism of skin cells and oxygenates the skin. Sheppard-Hanger pg. 215

The oil reduced malodorous necrotic ulcers in head and neck cancer patients and showed a small anti-inflammatory effect. Warnke PH et al., Phytomedicine 2006 13(7): 463-7.

It is a natural insect repellent,

Avoid when pregnant and with children under 5. Never take this oil internally. Less than 5 MLS can kill a child. It can cause CNS and breathing problems in young children. Do not apply to or near the face or nose of infants or children under ten. It can be a dermal irritant to those with dermatitis.  Tisserand pg. 273. The maximum dermal limit is 20%; avoid use if you have dermatitis.

This oil is on Canada’s Hot list. https://www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/services/consumer-product-safety/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredient-hotlist-prohibited-restricted-ingredients/hotlist.html

Research:

Anti-inflammatory, Antioxidant, and Dermatoprotective Effects
A study published in Molecules examined the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and dermatoprotective effects of Eucalyptus globulus essential oil and honey, both individually and combined. The essential oil, rich in eucalyptol, demonstrated significant antioxidant activity, inhibition of tyrosinase (a skin-aging enzyme), and strong bactericidal effects against several bacterial strains. The study highlights the oil’s potential in dermatoprotective applications due to its robust biological activities. Assaggaf et al., 2022.

Safety and Skin Irritation
Research in Current Chemical Biology evaluated the safety of Eucalyptus globulus essential oil through acute and sub-acute toxicity tests and skin irritation studies in mice and rats. The findings indicated that the oil is non-toxic at lower concentrations but causes toxicity and death at higher doses. The 5% ointment formulation applied to rat skin did not result in any abnormal skin reactions, suggesting it is safe for topical use at appropriate dilutions. Mengiste et al., 2020.

Anti-Aging and Skin Health
A study published in Pharmaceutics investigated the protective effects of Eucalyptus globulus essential oil against skin aging. The study found that the oil decreased age-related markers like β-galactosidase and matrix metalloproteinases while upregulating collagen type 1. It also exhibited depigmenting effects by inhibiting tyrosinase and melanin production. The absence of skin irritation confirmed the oil’s safety for topical applications. Moreira et al., 2022.

Antimicrobial Properties
A study in the Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Biomedicine assessed the antimicrobial activity of Eucalyptus globulus essential oil against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus. The essential oil showed significant antibacterial effects against both gram-negative and gram-positive bacteria, indicating its potential as a natural antibiotic for treating infections. Bachir & Benali, 2012.

Eucalyptus Oil: A study on various essential oils’ immunomodulatory effects found potential in eucalyptus oil in modulating immune responses and reducing inflammation. However, more clinical data are needed to support these findings fully (MDPI). https://www.mdpi.com/2218-273X/10/8/1139

Fennel (Sweet)– Foeniculum vulgare- Umbelliferae

3 Key Constituents: (E)-Anethole (46-89%), (+)-Limonene (30-46%), Fenchone-(Lawrence 1995g p. 199-Kubeczka 2002). It is Steam distilled from the seeds. This oil is notable for its high content of trans-anethole, which imparts various therapeutic properties, including antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-protective effects.

It is for corns, bruises, gum disorders, and bad breath. It is an astringent for watery, dull, oily, and mature skin. Corns. Sheppard-Hanger, pg. 225. Combine with spike lavender topically for hair loss.

Avoid it with pregnancy, epilepsy, alcoholism and liver disease. Please do not take it internally. Possibly carcinogenic in large doses- be especially careful with estrogen-sensitive cancers. Cross-sensitization with anise and coriander. Possible skin sensitizer. Avoid it in pregnancy, breastfeeding, endometriosis and with children under the age of 5.   It may interfere with medications, such as diabetes, hemophilia and peptic ulcer. Tisserand and Young pg. 277.  It may inhibit blood clotting—a dermal maximum of 2.5%. Do not use fennel seed with babies or children. It may encourage premature breast development. This applies to fennel tea, as well. Tisserand and Young

Research:

Antimicrobial and Antioxidant Activity
A study published in Food Control analyzed the chemical composition and antibacterial activity of fennel essential oil. The oil exhibited significant antibacterial effects against several pathogens, including Staphylococcus albus, Bacillus subtilis, and Escherichia coli. The study also highlighted the oil’s strong antioxidant properties, which contribute to its ability to protect the skin from oxidative stress and microbial infections (Diao et al., 2014).

Antifungal Properties
Research in the Journal of Essential Oil Bearing Plants evaluated the antifungal activity of fennel essential oil against Alternaria alternata, a common plant pathogen. At certain concentrations, the oil completely inhibited the fungus’s mycelial growth, demonstrating its potent antifungal properties. This suggests that fennel essential oil could be beneficial for treating fungal infections of the skin (Mahmoudi, 2017).

Chemical Composition and Skin Health Benefits
A study published in Natural Product Research analyzed the chemical composition of fennel essential oil and evaluated its antimicrobial and anticancer activities. The major components were trans-anethole, estragole, and limonene. The oil showed strong antibacterial activity against multiple strains and demonstrated potential anticancer properties, indicating its usefulness in skincare formulations aimed at improving skin health and protecting against microbial infections (Akhbari et al., 2019).

Anti-Inflammatory and Analgesic Effects
An investigation published in Pharmacological Research highlighted the anti-inflammatory and analgesic effects of fennel essential oil. The study found that the oil effectively inhibited inflammation and pain responses in animal models, suggesting its potential for reducing skin inflammation and irritation (Tognolini et al., 2007).

Frankincense- Boswellia carterii- Burseraceae

The gum of this tree is steam-distilled. Frankincense Essential Oil is known for its antiseptic, astringent, and cicatrisant (wound-healing) activities. The main constituents of this oil include alpha-pinene, which offers anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties; limonene, known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects; caprylyl acetate, which contributes to the oil’s soothing and calming characteristics; and Alpha-Thujene.

Frankincense may be used neat for those with hardy skin and no allergies. Do a patch test on the crux of your arm to determine sensitivity. This oil is anti-infectious. Frankincense is commonly used for dry, aging skin, including the neck, scars, wrinkles, and stretch marks. Frankincense is an excellent wound healer for scars, ulcers, wounds, and stretch marks. It has been used since the 15th Century B.C. in Egypt. Egyptian elite used it spiritually for face masks, cosmetics, and perfumes. They perfumed their hands with frankincense in cold weather. Sheppard-Hanger pg. 125. It is also helpful for abscesses and hemorrhoids.

Avoid this oil while pregnant or breastfeeding, do not use it internally, and do not use it with epilepsy. In rare cases, it may cause contact dermatitis. Avoid oxidized oil.

Research:

Antimicrobial and Antifungal Activity
A study published in the Journal of Essential Oil Bearing Plants evaluated the antimicrobial activity of Boswellia carterii essential oil. The oil exhibited significant antibacterial properties against Escherichia coli and Fusarium solani, with minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) values ranging from 0.625 to 2.5 μL/mL. The oil’s effectiveness against bacterial and fungal pathogens highlights its potential as a natural antimicrobial agent (Perveen & Alsayed, 2023).

Research published in Drug Delivery focused on the formulation and characterization of transdermal microemulsions containing Boswellia carterii essential oil for anti-inflammatory activity. The study found that the microemulsions showed high encapsulation efficiency and significant anti-inflammatory effects, making them a promising alternative to oral anti-inflammatory treatments (Mostafa et al., 2015).

Allergic Contact Dermatitis

A case report in Contact Dermatitis highlighted the occurrence of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) from Boswellia carterii oil in aromatherapists. Despite its widespread use, instances of ACD are rare, suggesting that the oil is generally safe but can cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals (Buonomo & Hylwa, 2021).

Galbanum- Ferula galbaniflua- Umbelliferae

Three key Constituents are B-pinene,- 3-carene (10-20%), and A-pinene (45-50%) (Lawrence 1993, pp. 82-83; Ghannadi & Agree 2002). It is prone to adulteration with other high monoterpene oils, such as pine or rosemary.

This essential oil contains significant amounts of β-pinene and α-pinene, contributing to its antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and skin-protective effects. It is used in skincare, hair care, and cosmetics for its potential anti-aging and rejuvenating properties.

It is mainly helpful for skin wounds and inflammations. It helps heal scar tissue and tone mature skin. Galbanum may also soften wrinkles and be beneficial for ulcers and abscesses. It may also help insect stings and bites. Galbanum is beneficial with acne, boils, and lesions, especially from long-standing cancers and chronic inflammation. Sheppard-Hanger pg. 223

Avoid it during pregnancy and with children. Do not take it internally. Galbanum is a skin irritant to some. Dermal limit up to 20%. Skin sensitizer if oxidized. Avoid exposure to sunlight for 12 hours after application. Tisserand and Young.

Geranium– (Chinese) Pelargonium x asperum- Geraniaceae

Steam distilled from leaves. Helpful for many skin conditions. Avoid in pregnancy and with babies. Rose Geranium is even more desirable for many skin issues. It may irritate or sensitize the skin. A dermal maximum of 17.5%. May react with diabetic medications if taken orally.

Research:

Chemical Composition and Antimicrobial Activity
The chemical profile of Moroccan Pelargonium asperum essential oil shows it is rich in citronellol (26.98%) and geraniol (14.12%), which contribute to its significant antimicrobial activity against various microorganisms. The oil exhibited strong inhibitory effects, especially against yeasts, making it a promising agent for skincare applications (Chraibi et al., 2016).

Antioxidant and Antibacterial Activities
Pelargonium asperum essential oil demonstrated considerable antioxidant and antibacterial activities, being more effective than Ormenis mixta essential oil. These properties are beneficial for protecting the skin from oxidative stress and bacterial infections, supporting its use in anti-aging and skin-healing products (Ouedrhiri et al., 2018).

Anti-Glycation and Radical Scavenging Activities
The essential oil of Pelargonium asperum exhibits anti-glycation and radical scavenging activities, which are crucial for anti-aging skincare. These activities help prevent the formation of advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) that contribute to skin aging and protect the skin from free radical damage (Btissam et al., 2015).

Antibacterial and Antifungal Properties
The essential oil of Pelargonium asperum has shown strong antibacterial and antifungal activities, making it suitable for use in cosmetic formulations aimed at treating skin infections and maintaining a healthy skin microbiome (Carmen & Hancu, 2014).

Wound Healing and Anti-Inflammatory Effects
Pelargonium asperum essential oil has been evaluated for its efficacy in wound healing and anti-inflammatory effects. Studies indicate that the oil accelerates wound healing, reduces inflammation, and promotes re-epithelialization, making it effective for treating various skin conditions (Behnampour et al., 2008).

Geranium, Rose– Geraniaceae
Pelargonium graveolens-

Chemical Composition Major Components: Citronellol (35%), Geraniol (28.8%) Minor Components: Citronellyl formate, Linalool, 10-epi-γ-eudesmol

Rose Geranium is distilled from the leaves. The primary constituents are citronellol, geraniol, and linalool, which impart a rose-like fragrance. This oil is used in perfumery, aromatherapy, cosmetics, food, and pharmaceuticals. Excellent for many skin conditions: oily, acne, burns, dry or weepy eczema, itchy and inflamed. It is thought to be anti-fungal, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, anti-infectious and antiseptic. It may also help ringworm, neuralgia, and hemorrhoids. Decreases congestion, accumulated fluids, and poor elimination of skin. It is a gentle but effective essential oil. Rose Geranium is a cellular regenerator. Balances oil secretion. Rose Geranium is also a mosquito repellent. Avoid in early pregnancy. Do not take it internally. Dermal maximum 17.5%, possibly as low as 0.5%. May react with diabetic medications if taken orally.

Research:

Antimicrobial Activity:
Suitability: Ideal for formulations aimed at combating bacterial and fungal infections. Effective in products for acne-prone skin or as a natural preservative in cosmetics (Bouzenna & Krichen, 2013).

Photoprotective Effects:
Suitability: Beneficial in sunscreens and daytime skincare products due to its ability to provide sun protection factor (SPF) and inhibit enzymes like tyrosinase, which are involved in pigmentation (El Aanachi et al., 2020).

Wound Healing and Anti-Inflammatory:
Suitability: Suitable for products aimed at healing minor cuts and wounds and reducing inflammation. Effective in after-sun care products and treatments for skin irritation (Behnampour et al., 2008).

While both Pelargonium graveolens and Pelargonium x asperum essential oils offer significant benefits in skincare and cosmetic formulations, slight variations in their chemical compositions influence their specific applications. Pelargonium graveolens, with higher concentrations of citronellol and geraniol, may be more potent in antimicrobial and photoprotective applications. Pelargonium x asperum, with its unique composition, is still highly effective but may be better suited for general skincare and less intense therapeutic needs. Both oils are valuable for anti-aging, wound healing, and protective skincare formulations.

Gotu Kola- Centella asiatica-

It is excellent for the skin. This essential oil has antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties. It is widely used in formulations for its potential anti-aging benefits and ability to improve skin and hair health. It is thought to improve the synthesis of collagen, thus promoting tissue firmness. It helps repair wounds. It is helpful for some psoriasis, burns, and varicose veins.

Please do not use it when pregnant. Some skin sensitivity can result. It is also available as an infused oil. The dermal limit is unknown.

Efficacy and Safety on Wrinkles
A systematic review analyzed the efficacy and safety of Centella asiatica for reducing facial wrinkles. The study included five double-blind randomized controlled trials with 172 Asian females. The results indicated that Centella asiatica improved lip and periocular wrinkles, increased skin hydration, and had fewer adverse events compared to tretinoin (Kongkaew et al., 2020).

Chemical Composition and Antibacterial Activity
The essential oil of Centella asiatica revealed a composition rich in sesquiterpenes such as α-humulene and β-caryophyllene, contributing to its broad-spectrum antibacterial activities against both Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria (Oyedeji & Afolayan, 2005).

UVB-Induced Skin Aging
The research analyzed the effect of a gel combining Centella asiatica transfersomes and rosemary essential oil nanoemulsion on UVB-induced skin aging. The gel significantly ameliorated wrinkle formation, reduced epidermal hyperplasia, and improved collagen fibre arrangement, suggesting its potential in anti-aging skincare (Khotimah et al., 2022).

Chemical Profile and Antiproliferative Activity
The essential oil from Centella asiatica collected in India contained high levels of α-humulene and β-caryophyllene, showing significant cytotoxicity against cancer cells. This suggests potential benefits for skin health and possibly reducing the risk of skin cancer (Remadevi et al., 2023).

Centella asiatica essential oil offers significant benefits for skin and hair care, including antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. It is effective in improving skin hydration, reducing wrinkles, protecting against UV-induced damage, and promoting overall skin health. These properties make it a valuable ingredient in cosmetic and therapeutic formulations.

Grapefruit Pink and White- Citrus paradisi-  Rutaceae

The oil is cold-pressed from the peel. It helps with oily skin, tones congested skin, and lightens skin. Grapefruit Essential Oil has antibacterial and anti-fungal properties. It primarily contains D-limonene, β-myrcene, α-pinene, and β-pinene.

Grapefruit oil is widely loved for its refreshing citrus scent. It is an excellent ingredient for body skincare formulations, particularly those aimed at firming and reducing cellulite. It is also effective in various other products, like shower gels and body lotions. It may also aid hair growth.

Please don’t use grapefruit oil internally because it may interfere with medications. Pink Grapefruit may irritate the skin. Older oil that oxidizes may become phototoxic, so do not use it on the skin before the sun or under light, such as when tanning—which may result in skin burning. Dermal limit 4%. Tisserand also says that grapefruit juice can interact with drugs, but the essential oil is not at all likely to cause drug interactions.

Research:

Chemical Composition: Grapefruit essential oil is predominantly composed of limonene (91.5-96.06%) and minor components like β-pinene, linalool, and α-terpinene.

Antibacterial Activity: The oil has shown significant antibacterial properties against a range of bacteria, making it effective for treating skin infections and enhancing the preservative qualities of cosmetic products (Uysal et al., 2011).

Antiaging Benefits: The oil’s ability to inhibit enzymes like hyaluronidase and collagenase highlights its potential in anti-aging formulations aimed at maintaining skin elasticity and reducing wrinkles (Fahmy et al., 2022).

Cytotoxic Effects: Studies on human leukemic (HL-60) cells showed that grapefruit essential oil induces apoptosis, indicating its potential for formulations that target skin cancer prevention and treatment (Hata et al., 2003).

Gurjun Balsam- Dipterocarpus turbinatus, Dipterocarpaceae

This essential oil is known for its antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing properties. Gurjun is traditionally used for inflamed skin. Major components include α-gurjunene (50.6%), α-selinene (8.3%), spathulenol (5.7%), and bicyclogermacrene (5.4%).

Avoid it while pregnant; do not take it internally.

Helichrysum italicum– Also called Immortelle.- Compositae

This oil is steam-distilled from the flowering heads of the strawflower. There is a meagre yield from this plant. Its main components are neryl acetate, gamma-curcumene and alpha-pinene.

Helichrysum is helpful for burns, wounds, acne, couperose skin, frostburn, herpes, ulcers, and mature skin. It may protect the skin from ultraviolet rays and free radical damage. It is also thought to treat damaged and congested skin and may prevent wrinkles. Helichrysum is an anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and anticoagulant which may prevent bruising.

No formal safety testing was done. There is a possibility of skin irritation. Do not use it if you are pregnant, breastfeeding, with children, or with pets. Avoid with anticoagulant medicines—it may cause a hemorrhage. If you have a ragweed allergy, many plants from this family could be skin sensitizers or even cause histamine reactions.

Research:

The antiaging effects of oleuropein combined with Helichrysum italicum essential oil were evaluated in cosmetic lotions. The combination exhibited the highest antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, making it a potent ingredient for antiaging skincare products (Tarbiat et al., 2021).

Study: Investigated the antineoplastic properties of Helichrysum italicum essential oil on murine melanoma cells.
Findings: The oil significantly inhibited tumour cell growth and exhibited low levels of cytotoxicity, suggesting its potential as an anticancer agent (Gismondi et al., 2020).

Study: A systematic review examining the effectiveness of Helichrysum italicum essential oil on wound healing.
Findings: The oil has good wound-healing abilities due to its antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory effects (Wijayadi & Kelvin, 2022).

Study: Investigated how neryl acetate, a major component of Helichrysum italicum essential oil, mediates its biological activities on the skin barrier.
Findings: Neryl acetate contributes significantly to the oil’s activity on skin barrier formation, upregulating genes involved in epidermal differentiation and skin barrier formation (Lemaire et al., 2022).

Ho Leaf and Wood- Cinnamomum camphora- Lauraceae

Tisserand pg. 305, Ho Leaf is generally called “ho leaf oil’. Curiously, it is sometimes referred to as ‘ho wood oil’. Steam distilled from the leaf. 3 Key Constituents: Linalool(80-95%) 1,8 Cineole, Nerolidol (Zhu et al 1993; Lawrence 1995d p. 30-33).

This oil is like rosewood and balances all skin types. Ho Leaf is a renewable resource from a leaf, not wood. Ho leaf is healing for wounds, sores, and muscular pains.

It’s an effective ingredient for treating skin conditions such as acne, eczema, and psoriasis​ (Brave in Bloom). https://braveinbloom.com/blogs/essential-oil-glossary/the-benefits-of-ho-wood-essential-oil Its gentle nature makes it suitable for sensitive skin types, and when added to carrier oils like jojoba or coconut oil, it helps to soothe and heal irritated skin.

Additionally, ho wood essential oil, closely related to ho leaf, is known for its skin conditioning and strengthening properties, which are particularly beneficial for aging skin. It helps maintain a healthy epidermis and is used in various skincare formulations​ (Professional Beauty).  https://professionalbeauty.co.uk/site/newsdetails/aromatherapy-series-skincare-benefits-of-ho-wood The oil’s high concentration of linalool, a compound with notable soothing and anti-inflammatory effects, contributes significantly to these skincare benefits.

Please don’t take it internally. Avoid it during pregnancy, with babies and children. Do not apply near the face of children.

Hyssop– Hyssopus officinalis-Lamiaceae

Steam distilled from the flowering tops and leaves, hyssop may relieve irritation from itching, flaking skin, and bruises. Used externally and diluted, this oil may be helpful for dermatitis, acne, cuts, and eczema. 3 Key Constituents: Pinocamphone (12-56%), Isopinocamphone (25-39%), beta-Pinene (12-23%). (Lawrence, 1989 p. 110, 1999c p. 58-60). It may also be effective against TB (Valnet, 1980). Historically, Hyssop was used for colds, flu, and sometimes anxiety. Avoid it during pregnancy, with children, babies, and anyone very fragile. Also, avoid it with people prone to epilepsy, asthma, and high blood pressure.

Research:

Muscle Relaxing Activity
Study: Investigated the muscle-relaxing activity of hyssop oil and its components on isolated intestinal preparations.
Findings: The essential oil inhibited contractions, suggesting it can help soothe muscle tension. In cosmetic formulations, this property can be beneficial for products aimed at reducing facial muscle tension, potentially minimizing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles (Lu et al., 2002).

Skin Barrier Formation and Healing
Study: Investigated the effects of hyssop oil on skin barrier formation and wound healing.
Findings: The oil promoted the formation of the skin barrier and accelerated wound healing, making it effective in products designed to repair and protect damaged skin (Venditti et al., 2015).

Antioxidant and Antibacterial Activities
Study: Assessed the antioxidant and antibacterial activities of hyssop essential oil.
Findings: The oil showed moderate antioxidant activity and significant antibacterial effects, supporting its use in anti-aging and anti-acne skin care products (Fathiazad et al., 2011).

Jasmine-  Jasminum officinalis Absolute-

Solvent extracted. It may be helpful on the skin, but it can be sensitizing. It is sometimes used on dry and greasy skin and has stretch marks, dermatitis, and intense itching (pruritus).

Jasmine does offer significant benefits for skin and hair care, including antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and potential anti-cancer properties. It is effective in treating skin infections, reducing oxidative stress, and promoting overall skin health.

However, it can cause allergic reactions in some individuals, making it important to perform patch tests before use in skincare products. Do not take it internally. Avoid during pregnancy, while breastfeeding, and with pets. It is often adulterated, with a moderate risk of skin sensitization. The maximum dermal level is 0.7%, as up to 2% of people with dermatitis react to it. Health Canada is considering putting it on its hotlist in 2024.

Research:

Study: This study analyzed the essential oil from Jasminum officinale flowers and evaluated its spasmolytic and vasodilator activities.
Findings: The oil exhibited significant antispasmodic and vasorelaxant effects, suggesting potential benefits for soothing muscle tension and improving blood flow. This can be relevant in cosmetic formulations aimed at reducing facial muscle tension and enhancing skin appearance (Rasheed, 2020).

Findings: The plant exerts antimicrobial, antioxidant, and dermatological effects. These properties make it suitable for treating skin infections, reducing oxidative stress, and promoting skin health (Al-Snafi, 2018).

Study: Analyzed the essential oil composition of Jasminum officinale flowers using GC-MS.
Findings: Identified 30 compounds, with phytol being the major volatile component. Phytol is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, which can help protect the skin from oxidative damage and inflammation, making it beneficial in anti-aging skin care products (Wei et al., 2015).

Study: Evaluated the cytotoxic activity of silver nanoparticles synthesized using Jasminum officinale leaves extract.
Findings: The nanoparticles exhibited high cytotoxic activity against bladder and breast cancer cell lines, suggesting potential anti-cancer properties. While this is more relevant to medicinal applications, it indicates the potent bioactive properties of jasmine extract (Elhawary et al., 2020).

Allergy to Jasmine
Study: Reported a case of IgE-mediated allergy to Jasmine officinale.
Findings: A 56-year-old woman experienced chest tightness, wheezing, and itchy skin after handling jasmine. The reaction subsided quickly upon moving away from the plant. This indicates that jasmine can be a contact allergen and cause allergic reactions in some individuals (González-de-Olano et al., 2012).

Juniper Berry -Juniperus communis- Coniferae

Steam distilled from the berry may relieve all skin types. Juniper Berry is perfect for oily skin with acne. It is often used for psoriasis, stretch marks, weeping and infected eczema, and cellulite. Juniper berry may be anti-inflammatory and helpful for stiff joints, as it expels uric acid. Juniper Berry is said to be a powerful detoxifying agent. Create a facial steam with juniper berry essential oil for congested skin with blackheads.

Juniperus communis essential oil offers significant benefits for skin and hair care, antifungal, antioxidant, and skin-lightening properties.

However, potential allergenicity and phototoxicity should be considered when incorporating it into cosmetic formulations. Avoid during pregnancy, with babies and pets. Do not take it internally. Skin sensitizer if oxidized.

Research:

Study: Investigated the anti-inflammatory activity of Juniperus communis berry essential oil (JEO) in human dermal fibroblasts.
Findings: JEO exhibited robust anti-inflammatory effects by significantly inhibiting the production of proinflammatory chemokines and tissue remodelling biomarkers. This suggests its potential for reducing inflammation and promoting skin healing in skincare formulations (Han & Parker, 2017).

Study: Evaluated the anti-melanogenic effect of Juniperus communis extract in skin hyperpigmentation models.
Findings: The extract significantly reduced melanin production and tyrosinase activity, suggesting its potential for use in skin-lightening and hyperpigmentation treatments (Jegal et al., 2017).

Study: Investigated the chemical composition and antimicrobial properties of Juniperus communis essential oil from North Macedonia.
Findings: The oil showed significant antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans, along with strong antioxidant properties, making it suitable for use in skincare products aimed at treating infections and protecting the skin (Bojkovska et al., 2022).

Laurel Leaf– Sweet Bay Laurus nobilis-Lauraceae

Steam distilled from the Laurel leaves stimulates hair and scalp and may help hair grow. Avoid breastfeeding and pregnancy with children and pets. It may irritate the skin. Do not take it internally. It can cause central nervous system or breathing problems in young children. Please do not put it in their nose, as it may cause mucous membrane irritation—0.5% maximum dermal use.

Research:
A review of the chemistry and biological activities of Laurus nobilis L. essential oil
Findings: This review summarizes the chemical constituents and biological activities of Laurus nobilis essential oil. The oil has demonstrated a range of beneficial properties, including antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects. These attributes make it suitable for various therapeutic applications, including wound healing and aromatherapy.
Citation: K.K. Chahal, M. Kaur, U. Bhardwaj. (2017). A review of the chemistry and biological activities of Laurus nobilis L. essential oil. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry. Retrieved from PDF.

Sweet bay (Laurus nobilis L.) essential oil and its chemical composition, antioxidant activity and leaf micromorphology under different extraction methods
Findings: This research explored the chemical composition of sweet bay essential oil and its antioxidant activity. The study found that the essential oil has strong antioxidant properties, which vary depending on the extraction method used. This makes Laurus nobilis a valuable ingredient for skincare and cosmetic products due to its ability to protect against oxidative damage.
Citation: A. Taban, M.J. Saharkhiz, M. Niakousari. (2018). Sweet bay (Laurus nobilis L.) essential oil and its chemical composition, antioxidant activity and leaf micromorphology under different extraction methods. Sustainable Chemistry and Pharmacy. Retrieved from ScienceDirect.

Lavandin– Lavendula x intermedia

Lavandin is Lavender crossed with Spike Lavender. It has similar effects but is more stimulating. 3 Key Constituents: Linalool, Linalyl acetate, and camphor. (Lawrence 1989 p. 241-243). Steam distilled from the flowers helps heal burns. It is safe but slightly more irritating than Lavendula officinalis. Please do not use it during pregnancy, breastfeeding, with babies or pets, or take it internally. Safe, but slightly more irritating to skin than true lavender.  Reactions can occur from taking lavandin internally with aspirin and anticoagulant medications. Purchon & Cantele pg. 71. Dilute well; do not use it straight on the skin.  There is a moderate risk of skin sensitizing: Tisserand, pg 324.

Lavender Spike– Lavendula spica/L. latifolia-

Steam-distilled flowers. It is suitable for burns, acne, fungal infections, and wound healing. It helps abscesses come to a head. Avoid during pregnancy, breastfeeding, with babies, children or pets. Depending on the amount of camphor in the composition, it may be mildly neurotoxic. Maximum dermal use is 19%.

Do not take it internally.

Lavender– Lavandula officinalis/ L. angustifolia-

Steam distilled from flowers. This is the most popular essential oil we know. Lavender Essential Oil is known for its ability to alleviate allergies (antihistaminic properties) and its moderate antioxidant capabilities, as well as its antiseptic and anti-inflammatory benefits. The oil includes a complex composition of over one hundred substances, with key components being linalool, linalyl acetate, lavandulyl acetate, camphor, and 1,8-cineole. Constituents will vary according to where it is grown. Lavender is a cellular regenerator. All skin types may benefit. Some find it useful for acne, allergies, athlete’s foot, boils, bruises, dandruff, dermatitis, dry and wet eczema, insect bites and stings, rashes, rosacea, sunburn, wounds, burns, and blisters. Lavender balances sebum,  scabs, scars, acne, bruises, and thread veins. It is a fabulous wound healer and may be helpful for boils, ringworm, abscesses, cuts, skin pain, and blisters. It is thought to be antibacterial and anti-infectious. It may prevent scarring. It may also regulate puffy skin. Avoid if pregnant, breastfeeding and with infants and pets. It may cause dermatitis in some people. There can be allergies to lavender, as with most essential oils. Lavender is an anticoagulant and blood thinner- so take note of this if you are on medications. Generally, it is very safe.

Research:

Summary: This study investigated the anxiolytic effects of inhaling Lavandula officinalis essential oil. The results showed that inhalation of the oil significantly increased serotonin (5-HT) levels in the striatum and hippocampus, which are associated with reduced anxiety. The study supports the use of lavender oil for its calming and anxiety-reducing effects.
Conclusion: Inhaling Lavandula officinalis essential oil can reduce anxiety, making it beneficial for aromatherapy and mental health applications.
Citation: Takahashi et al., 2014

Summary: This study evaluated the anticancer and anti-mutagenic effects of Lavandula officinalis essential oil. The oil showed high cytotoxic effects against hepatocellular carcinoma (HepG2) and lung carcinoma (A549) cell lines. Additionally, it demonstrated the ability to attenuate genotoxicity and deleterious histopathological effects in a dose-dependent manner.
Citation: Fahmy et al., 2022

Summary: This review article highlights the biological and pharmaceutical properties of Lavandula officinalis essential oil. The oil is widely used in the cosmetics and perfumery industry due to its antimicrobial, antioxidant, and neuro-sedative properties. It is also utilized in aromatherapy for its therapeutic benefits.
Conclusion: Lavandula officinalis essential oil’s broad range of biological activities makes it valuable for cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and aromatherapy applications.
Citation: Diass et al., 2021

Lemon -Citrus limonum- Rutaceae

Steam distilled or expressed from the peel, lemon essential oil is suitable for blonde hair, as it lightens skin pigments. This is even truer for the herb. Lemon Essential Oil is antimicrobial and antioxidant. Its primary components include d-limonene, beta-pinene, alpha-pinene, and y—y-terpinene, with the expressed oil also containing furanocoumarins.

Lemon essential oil is used for acne, boils, corns, warts, couperose, dry skin, thin hair, and nails. Thought to balance sebum, strengthen epidermis function, tighten blood vessels and stimulate connective tissue. Lemon can also remove warts and soothe infection from insect bites and stings (Purchon and Cantele) pg. 74.

Lemon oil is a popular choice for cellulite treatments, oily skin products, and even anti-aging formulas. It is also effective in hair care products to help manage oily hair and in shower products, as it is refreshing. It may also promote hair shine and increase its growth.

Lemon can be phototoxic. Do not go into sunlight or sunbeds after use. This can cause nasty burns and blistering of the skin. Please do not use it internally, as it may interfere with medications. Skin sensitizer if oxidized. Maximum dermal limit 2%. People with dermatitis may react to lemon oil. Keep the oil away from children and pets.

Research:

Antioxidative Action of Citrus limonum Essential Oil on Skin A study aimed to investigate the antioxidative properties of Citrus limonum essential oil, focusing on its ability to control free radical-induced lipid peroxidation and prevent tissue damage in the skin. The essential oil was analyzed using GC-MS, and its superoxide anion scavenging activity was evaluated. Results indicated that lemon essential oil was highly effective in inhibiting peroxide free radicals, suggesting its practical application in protecting human skin from oxidative damage.
Conclusion: Lemon essential oil exhibits strong antioxidative properties, making it effective for protecting skin against oxidative stress and damage.
Citation: Bertuzzi et al., 2013

Chemical Composition of Citrus limon L. Burmf Peel Essential Oil from North East India This study analyzed the chemical composition of Citrus limon peel essential oil using hydrodistillation and GC-MS. A total of 43 compounds were identified, with limonene (55.40%) and neral (10.39%) as the major components. The oil showed significant medicinal properties and potential applications in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.
Conclusion: Lemon peel essential oil’s high content of limonene and other compounds provides valuable medicinal properties, supporting its use in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products.
Citation: Paw et al., 2020

Lemongrass– Cymbopogon citratus-Graminae

Steam distilled from the grass. 3 Key Constituents: Geranial, Neral, Geranyl Acetate (Lawrence 1989 p.111, 2002f p. 58)
This is a very underutilized oil. It is suitable for oily skin, infections, and cellulite and counters acne, athlete’s foot, and enlarged pores. Lemongrass is a tissue toner and lymphatic detoxifier. It is said to aid in weak connective tissue and tighten elastin weakness.

Add a couple of drops to shampoo for oily hair. Dilute in a carrier for acne and skin infections. Dilute or dab straight onto the athlete’s foot and ringworm. The oil is strongly anti-fungal.

In homemade creams or serum concoctions, lemongrass aids weak connective tissue and tightens elastin weakness.

It might have a protective effect on the early stages of breast cancer, Tisserand and Young pg. 335. Insect repellent. Possible skin irritant and sensitizer.

Research has indicated its efficacy in several clinical applications, including dental health, where it is as effective as chlorhexidine in treating periodontitis and gingivitis. It’s also been found potentially beneficial for skin conditions like pityriasis versicolor and may even have anti-dandruff effects​ (MDPI). https://www.mdpi.com/1424-8247/17/2/159

Cymbopogon Citratus: Topically applied, this oil was found to improve epidermal barrier function and hydration while reducing micro-inflammatory processes caused by irritative stimuli​ (MDPI). https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/10/1/29

It can cause reactions in those with dermatitis. Avoid during pregnancy and with breastfeeding. Do not take it internally. It can interfere with diabetic medication if taken orally. Anticoagulant. Possible dermal irritant. Use 0.5% or lower dose to avoid sensitivity issues- Tisserand, pg. 334.

Lemon Verbena-Lippia citriodora- Verbenaceae

Steam distilled from the freshly harvested leaves. It is antiseptic and good for acne and boils, but put directly onto the spots, as it may irritate the surrounding skin. It may also be helpful for cold sores, although it is less potent than Melissa, for this purpose. Do not use it if pregnant or breastfeeding. Do not take it internally. Skin sensitizer, mildly phototoxic. Dermal maximum of 0.9%. If taken orally, it might interfere with diabetic medications.

Mandarin– Citrus nobilis (same species as tangerine)- Rutaceae

Cold-pressed from the peel. 3 Key Constituents: (+)-Limonene (65-77%), y-Terpinene (up to 22%), a-Pinene; (Lawrence 1996b p. 25-28). Yield is 1 kilo from 100-150 kilograms of fresh, bruised peels. Three mandarin oils are available (Green, Yellow and Red), with the latter being the sweeter and more rounded.

It is thought to be beneficial for oily, congested skin or in combination with acne, scars, pimples, and stretch marks. Toning, antiseptic and a preventative for stretch marks. Moisturizing, softening to dry skin. It is also excellent for aging and mature skin—spot relief of acne boils, plantar warts, and vitiligo.

It may irritate some skin.  Older oils may be phototoxic and a skin sensitizer.

Research:
Volatile composition of the peel and leaf essential oils of Citrus nobilis Lour. var deliciosa Swingle
Findings: This research identifies the volatile compounds present in the peel and leaf essential oils of Citrus nobilis. It highlights the differences in composition between the two sources, which can influence their uses in aromatherapy and cosmetic formulations.
Citation: J. Asgarpanah, S.M. Motamed, S. Tomraee. (2012). Volatile composition of the peel and leaf essential oils of Citrus nobilis Lour. var deliciosa Swingle. African Journal of Biotechnology. Retrieved from AJOL.

Mandarin Essential Oil
Summary: Mandarin oil is a soothing and calming essential oil popular in skincare and aromatherapy. It is known for its ability to moisturize dry, irritated skin and has been proven to reduce stretch marks and scars with continuous use. In hair care, it promotes healthy scalp circulation and adds shine to the hair. Its gentle nature makes it ideal for use in various cosmetic formulations to rejuvenate and cleanse the skin.
Click to read more: Mandarin Essential Oil

Manuka– Leptospermum scoparium- Myrtaceae

3 Key Constituents: Leptospermone, (E)-Calamenene, x-Pinene (Lawrence 20001b p. 22-25). Sesquiterpenes (<17%) and triketones (<31%).
Steam-distilled leaves and end branches are used in Australia and New Zealand for fungus infections, ringworm, athlete’s foot, cold sores, burns, and wounds. It is also used topically for skin infections, acne, boils, and acute and allergic eczema.

According to Purchon and Cantele pg. 81- Manuka is an antihistamine that treats insect bites, stings, and allergic reactions, such as hives. According to Dr. Penoeol, it is effective against some staph and strep infections and vaginitis. Manuka is a proven antioxidant- Tisserand and Young pg. 344.

Non-irritating and non-skin sensitizing. It is also good to heal or avoid diaper rash if you add manuka oil to the cream on a baby’s bottom. Purchon and Cantele pg. 81

Do not use it during pregnancy, with babies, or internally. It is still untested.

Antimicrobial:
Conclusion: Leptospermum scoparium essential oil shows strong antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus pseudintermedius, making it a promising treatment for veterinary skin and ear infections. Citation: Song et al., 2013

Marjoram– (Sweet) Origanum marjorana-Lamiaceae

Steam distilled from the leaves. It may inhibit some bacteria and fungi. Marjoram is antiseptic. Avoid during pregnancy, breastfeeding and with young children and pets. Do not take it internally.

Melissa– Lemon Balm – Melissa officinalis- Lamiaceae

Steam-distilled leaves and flowering tops. It is effective against Herpes Simplex- cold sores and shingles if applied during the itchy phase before a full eruption. Reduces healing time and lengthens the time before another occurrence (Lawrence 1989). It is also used on insect bites, especially bees and wasps.  It may have anti-allergenic qualities. It may irritate sensitive skin. Avoid in cases of glaucoma. Do not take it internally. If taken orally, it can interfere with medication. Do not use it if pregnant, breastfeeding, or with babies, children, or pets. This essential oil is very pricey and prone to being adulterated.  It may irritate hypersensitive or damaged skin—maximum dermal limit 0.9%.

Research:

Melissa officinalis L. Essential Oil: Antitumoral and Antioxidant Activities
This study analyzed the chemical composition and biological activities of Melissa officinalis essential oil, which was effective against several human cancer cell lines and demonstrated significant antioxidant activity.
Conclusion: Melissa officinalis essential oil exhibits strong antitumoral and antioxidant properties, suggesting its potential in cancer treatment and skin protection. Citation: Sousa et al., 2004

Melissa officinalis Oil Affects Infectivity of Enveloped Herpesviruses
This study evaluated the antiviral effects of Melissa officinalis essential oil on herpes simplex virus types 1 and 2. The oil significantly inhibited viral infectivity, showing a 98.8% and 97.2% reduction in plaque formation for HSV-1 and HSV-2, respectively. Conclusion: Melissa officinalis essential oil has potent antiviral properties, making it suitable for treating herpetic infections. Citation: Schnitzler et al., 2008

 Wild Bergamot, Bee Balm-Monarda fistulosa- Lamiaceae

Steam distilled from the flowering plant. Like rose geranium, it balances hair and skin. Monarda is helpful for aged skin and shingle pain. Avoid it during pregnancy, breastfeeding and with children and pets.

Myrrh- Commiphora myrrha- Burseraceae

It is distilled from the gum resin. 3 Key Constituents: Furanoeudesma-1,3 diene, Furanodiene, Lindestrene (Dekebo et al. 2002) Contains sesquiterpenes (<70%) including delta elemene, (28%), alpha copaene (11%), beta elemene (7%), alpha bergamotene (5%), and numerous other minor compounds.

Myrrh is historically thought good for skin—aging, chapped, cracked, ulcerations, fungal infections, weeping eczema, ringworm, and wrinkles. It may be antiseptic, fungicidal, and anti-inflammatory. It is helpful for athlete’s foot, scars, and wounds.

Although myrrh has been used to heal skin issues in the past, when dealing with sensitive skin, dilute it very well and do a patch test to check for sensitivity.  Myrrh may be thinned with alcohol or other dilutants to make it pourable. It is also strong and somewhat aggressive. So, when dealing with sensitive skin, you may choose Roman chamomile, frankincense, or lavender.

Cosmetically, myrrh is also suitable for mature skin and wrinkles. It preserves the skin so well that it was used in embalming). Add it to a carrier and apply it with a nail brush to help brittle nails. But Myrrh has a “stubborn” personality. It is often very thick and does not play with other oils easily.

When highly diluted with suitable carrier oils, it is good for cracked and chapped skin on the lips, heels or hands.

For centuries, it has been used for gum health and hemorrhoids. However, it can be toxic in large doses. Avoid it during pregnancy, while breastfeeding, and with babies and pets. Do not take it internally. Also, please do not use it with an air-blown, intricate diffuser, as it will clog it up. The oil is drying, astringent and contraindicated in all dry conditions, including dry, unproductive cough and dry forms of constipation.

Research:

Effects of Resin and Essential Oil from Commiphora myrrha Engl. on Wound Healing
This study evaluated the wound-healing properties of the essential oil and resin of Commiphora myrrha using in vivo and in vitro models. The ointments containing 4% essential oil and 5% resin showed significant wound healing effects, evidenced by increased wound contraction rate, shorter epithelization time, and higher skin-breaking strength compared to controls. The oil and resin also exhibited potent antibacterial activity, comparable to ciprofloxacin against some Gram-negative bacteria. Conclusion: Commiphora myrrha essential oil and resin enhance wound healing and possess significant antibacterial properties, supporting their traditional use in wound management. Citation: Gebrehiwot et al., 2017

Myrrh: Medical Marvel or Myth of the Magi?
This review discusses the historical and contemporary medicinal uses of Commiphora myrrha. Myrrh essential oil, rich in terpenoids, is noted for its antiseptic, anesthetic, and antitumor properties. Recent studies have validated its use as an antineoplastic and antiparasitic agent and in wound healing. Conclusion: Commiphora myrrha essential oil has significant medicinal properties, including antiseptic, anesthetic, and antitumor effects, making it a valuable natural remedy. Citation: Nomicos, 2007

Myrtle – Myrtus communis-Myrtaceae

Red Myrtle – 3 Key Constituents: 1,8-Cineole, Alpha-Pinene, Myrtenyl acetate (Tisserand pg. 358 from conversation with Berger, 1998)

Red is higher in 1.8 Cineole, making it more effective for anti-bacterial sprays. Green is a little gentler and more calming. Purchon and Cantele pg. 86

Green Myrtle – 3 Key Constituents: Alpha-Pinene, 1-8-Cineole, Myrtenyl acetate. (Lawrence 1995g. p. 80-82).

Steam distilled from branches and leaves. It is often used on devitalized, inflamed skin. Myrtle is excellent for various skin conditions ranging from devitalized to irritated, inflamed, acne, oily, open pores, wrinkles, psoriasis, and scaling. Sheppard-Hanger pg. 303

It can be used in skin potions, washes, lotions and creams. Made into a suppository with coconut oil, myrtle can be used for hemorrhoids. Dilute and rub onto the area for varicose veins. I

In high dilutions, it may irritate mucous membranes. Do not use if pregnant or with children. Do not take it internally. There can be drug interactions in oral use with diabetes medication. Tisserand, pg. 358. Potential carcinogen based on a small estragole content. The amount of estragole in myrtle oils varies substantially. Find one that is very low in this component. Tisserand and Young suggest a dermal maximum of 1.9 -0.02% of myrtle, depending on the plant’s constituents.

Essential Oil of Myrtus communis Inhibits Inflammation in Rats by Reducing Serum IL-6 and TNF-α The topical anti-inflammatory activity of Myrtus communis essential oil was studied using croton oil-induced ear edema and cotton pellet-induced granuloma models in rats. The essential oil significantly decreased ear edema, myeloperoxidase activity, and serum levels of TNF-α and IL-6. Conclusion: Myrtus communis essential oil reduces inflammation by inhibiting leukocyte migration and decreasing inflammatory cytokines, indicating its potential use in anti-inflammatory treatments. Citation: Maxia et al., 2011

Neroli Citrus aurantium var. italicum and amara Rutaceae

Steam-distilled flowers. It is suitable for dehydrated, aging skin, spider or varicose veins, and broken blood vessels—ideal for most skin types and stretch marks. Occasionally, it causes skin reactions. Do not use it if you are pregnant. Due to its cost, it is susceptible to adulteration.

Chemical Composition and In Vitro Antimicrobial and Antioxidant Activities of Citrus aurantium L. Flowers Essential Oil (Neroli Oil) This study analyzed the chemical composition of Neroli oil and its antimicrobial and antioxidant activities. The main components were limonene, (E)-nerolidol, alpha-terpineol, alpha-terpinyl acetate, and (E, E)-farnesol. The oil exhibited strong antibacterial and antifungal activities, particularly against Pseudomonas aeruginosa and strong antioxidant properties. Conclusion: Neroli oil has potent antimicrobial and antioxidant properties, making it suitable for medicinal and cosmetic applications. Citation: Ammar et al., 2012

Niaouli-Melaleuca quinquenervia var. cineole- Myrtaceae

Steam-distilled branches. 3 Key Constituents: 1,8-Cineole, Alpha-Pinene, (+)-Limonene Tisserand pg. 364, communication with McGilvray, 1999)

It benefits most skin types, especially infected skin, acne, insect bites, and wet and dry eczema. It is helpful for a spectrum of skin conditions, from oily to mature skin. It may firm tissues and aid wrinkles. Try it diluted for skin conditions like psoriasis, fungal infections, lice, and itchy, scaly, pus-like conditions. It is also helpful for gangrenous wounds. Of course, you can see a doctor quickly if you’re worried about it. Niaouli is also beneficial for skin abscesses and scalp crusts. Sheppard-Hanger pg. 281

Niaouli helps protect from deep radiation burns if used pre- & post-radiation. Sheppard-Hanger pg. 281. The chemotype viridiflorol is superior.
Niaouli is strongly disinfectant, anti-viral, anti-bacterial and fungicidal. May stop

itching and allergic reactions. It is sometimes used neatly on athlete’s foot. It is thought to be a potent anti-inflammatory and may protect from deep radiation burns if used pre- & post-radiation (10% in rosehip oil). It may be helpful after x-rays, too.

Avoid it during pregnancy, breastfeeding, infants and pets. Do not take it internally. Avoid internal use with gastrointestinal problems and biliary or liver disease. Blood thinner. Application of the oil on a baby’s or infant’s face can cause bronchial or asthma-like attacks or respiratory failure. This oil is not at high risk for dermal or sensitizing issues. Tisserand and Young.
Research:

Chemical variation in the leaf essential oil of Melaleuca quinquenervia (Cav.) S.T. Blake”
Findings: This study analyzed the chemical composition of Niaouli essential oil from different regions. It found significant variations in the oil’s components, particularly in the levels of 1,8-cineole. These variations impact the oil’s antimicrobial and therapeutic properties, highlighting the importance of sourcing and quality control in its use.
Citation: Ireland, B.F., Hibbert, D.B., Goldsack, R.J., Doran, J.C., & Brophy, J.J. (2002). Chemical variation in the leaf essential oil of Melaleuca quinquenervia (Cav.) S.T. Blake. Biochemical Systematics and Ecology, 30(5), 457-470. Read the full paper

Title: “Main Industrial Niaouli (Melaleuca quinquenervia) Oil Chemotype Productions from Madagascar” Findings: This paper examines the primary chemotypes of Niaouli essential oil produced in Madagascar. It focuses on the high levels of 1,8-cineole in the oil and its in
dustrial applications, particularly in pharmaceuticals for respiratory and skin conditions.
Citation: Ramanoelina, P.A.R., Bianchini, J.P., & Gaydou, E.M. (2008). Main Industrial Niaouli (Melaleuca quinquenervia) Oil Chemotype Productions from Madagascar. Journal of Essential Oil Research, 20(1), 1-5. Read the full paper

Article:
Title: “10 Benefits and Uses of Niaouli Oil”
Findings: This article provides an overview of Niaouli essential oil, detailing its common uses in aromatherapy, topical applications, medicinal purposes, and in candle and soap recipes. It highlights the oil’s natural properties, such as its ability to soothe skin, support respiratory health, and its potential benefits for overall wellbeing. Citation: Nikura. (2024, January 10). 10 Benefits and Uses of Niaouli Oil. Read the full article

Orange Bitter– Citrus aurantium var. amara Rutaceae

3 Key Constituents: (+- Limonene, B-Myrcene, Linalool; (Lawrence 1989 p/ 41, 200b p. 46-49)
Re-distilled (for skin) or cold-pressed from the peel.

Cosmetic uses include dull, dry, oily, congested, acne, and wrinkly skin. It may strengthen and soften skin. It stimulates nerve endings, aids in hydration, calms oil gland function, increases the hydrolipid layer, and supports regeneration. Sheppard-Hanger pg. 165

If oxidized, it is phototoxic. High amounts may irritate the skin. Avoid in the first trimester of pregnancy—1.25% dermal limit. Tisserand & Young pg. 371. Old or oxidized oils should be avoided.

Orange Sweet- Citrus sinensis- Rutaceae

Peels can be steam-distilled or cold-pressed. They are similar to Bitter Oranges. If oxidized, they might be phototoxic and a skin irritant.

Oregano– Origanum vulgare- Lamiaceae

Steam-distilled leaves are anti-infectious, antiseptic, and anti-fungal. Do not use it internally.

Avoid oregano essential oil when pregnant, breastfeeding, with children, and pets. It can irritate the skin. In high amounts, it may be toxic to the liver. If taken orally, oregano may interfere with medications. The maximum dermal limit is 1.1%.

Palmarosa- Cymbopogon martinii-Graminae

3 Key Constituents: Geraniol (80- 95%), Geranyl acetate (5-25%), (E, Z)- Farnesol. (Lawrence 2002a. p. 56-57).

Steam distilled from the grass is said to be good for acne, dermatitis, wet and dry eczema, dry skin, scars, and wrinkles. Palmarosa may be a broad-spectrum antimicrobial antiseptic with fungicidal action (comparable to tea tree and niaouli).

Palmarosa oil has cytophylactic properties, promoting cell growth and regeneration, which is beneficial for healing wounds and boosting the body’s immune response​ (Organic Facts). https://www.organicfacts.net/health-benefits/essential-oils/health-benefits-of-palma-rosa-essential-oil.html

It also regulates sebum. Purchon and Cantle pg. 92 say it restores and maintains correct water balance and, if used regularly, will help to tone wrinkles and rough skin. Not bad for such an inexpensive essential oil!

Palmarosa is very gentle and hydrating on the skin.

Avoid it during pregnancy and with children. Do not take it internally. It can interfere with drugs if taken orally—maximum dermal limit 5.3%. There is a low risk of skin sensitization.

Parsley Herb– Petroselinum sativum-Umbelliferae

Steam distilled from the leaves is antimicrobial, antiseptic, and stimulating. It gives a green note in men’s scent blends. The most important parsley compounds are myristicin, apiol, 1-allyl-2,3,4,5-tetramethoxybenzene, b-phellandrene, 1,3,8-p-menthatriene, b-pinene, terpinolene, apiin, oxypeucedanin and falcarinol.

Parsley essential oil is highly regarded for its antioxidative properties, which help protect the skin from free radical damage. This can be crucial in maintaining youthful skin and reducing signs of aging​ (Organic Facts)​​. https://www.organicfacts.net/parsley-essential-oil.html

The oil is also recognized for its anti-inflammatory benefits, which can soothe irritated skin and reduce redness and swelling. This makes it a valuable component in treatments for skin conditions like acne and eczema​ (Brave in Bloom)​. https://braveinbloom.com/blogs/essential-oil-glossary/parsley-leaf-essential-oil-benefits-in-skin-hair-and-aging-routines

Moreover, parsley essential oil contains high levels of vitamin C, a critical factor in collagen synthesis. Collagen is essential for skin elasticity and regeneration, helping to minimize fine lines and improve the overall texture of the skin​ (Beauty Answered)​. https://www.beautyanswered.com/what-are-the-benefits-of-parsley-for-skin.htm

This vitamin also aids in evening out skin tone and reduces dark spots and blemishes by stimulating the skin’s healing process​ (Clarins Beauty). https://www.clarins.ca/en/ingredient-library/ingredient-parsley-essential-oil.html

Do not take it internally. Please do not take it while pregnant, breastfeeding, or with children or pets. It may be an abortifacient. It can be irritating to the skin. Maximum dermal use 14.6%—Tiseserand and Young, pg. 380.

Patchouli– Pogostemon cablin- Lamiaceae

Steam distilled from a resinoid made from partially fermented leaves. 3 Key Constituents: Patchoulol (24-50%), alpha-Bulnesene (10-26%), alpha-Guaiene (6-15%). (Lawrence 1989 p. 15, 1995 c. p. 73; Milchard et al. l 2004) Beneficial for acne, athlete’s foot, cellulite, dandruff, enlarged pores, impetigo, inflammatory and allergic skin, seborrheic, dermatitis (spider, varicose or broken veins) and weeping eczema. It is beneficial for dehydrated skin and bedsores. It is thought to be anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic and astringent. It has historically been used in India on cracks, scars, wounds, and chapped skin.

Patchouli is a tissue regenerator and skin tonic. Sheppard-Hanger, pg. 361. It helps treat rough, irritated, dry, or tired skin, moistening the epidermis and increasing skin elasticity deeply. It is used in wrinkle formulas. Purchon and Cantele, pg. 94, say it helps tighten loose skin. It also has a history of use for weeping eczema, impetigo, snake, and insect bites. Patchouli is also an insect repellent and deodorizer.

Please do not take it internally or use it when pregnant or breastfeeding. It is a low-risk allergen and may obstruct bile flow in people with GERD. Neurotoxic in high doses. Maximum dermal limit 5.4%. Do not take it internally; allergies exist; do not use it if pregnant or breastfeeding. Do not use patchouli with anorexia or elders, as it may reduce appetite. Purchon and Cantele pg. 94. Drug interactions- may inhibit blood clotting. Avoid oral use with anticoagulant medication, major surgery, peptic ulcer, hemophilia, and other bleeding disorders. There is also a slight chance of skin reactivity. Tisserand pg. 382.

Peppermint– Mentha piperita Lamiaceae

Steam distilled from the flowering herb, the main constituents are menthol, menthone, and menthyl acetate. Much research has been done on this plant, which has been in European culture for hundreds of years. It is used for shingles and dermatitis and is thought to be detoxifying. It may constrict capillaries, relieve itching and inflammation, and soften and degrease the skin.

Two or three drops in facial steam help to cleanse congested skin and kill bacteria. This makes it helpful for acne and ringworm. Purchon and Cantele pg. 95

It has a history of aiding detoxification. It constricts capillaries, relieves itching and inflammation, softens & degreases skin, removes blackheads, aids in retaining water in tissue, and cools the skin. Sheppard-Hanger-pg 289

It can be used in cellulite formulas and for greasy hair. It is very refreshing in the shower. It helps reduce water retention in tissue and cool skin. It helps remove blackheads. Apply it to bruises, with the skin intact, to relieve the pain.

Avoid peppermint during pregnancy and lactation. Keep away from babies, infants, possibly until 10, and pets. It may cause reflex apnea or laryngospasm in babies. It may cause contact dermatitis. Keep away from eyes and nostrils. Do not use peppermint on grafted tissue. Do not take it internally. Avoid with cardiac fibrillation or G6PD deficiency. Tisserand and Young.

Research:

Peppermint Oil For Skin: Benefits And How To Use
Conclusion: Peppermint essential oil soothes inflammation, irritation, and itchiness on the skin and scalp and promotes wound healing.
Citation: Peppermint Oil For Skin: Benefits And How To Use – Juicy Chemistry

Benefits and Properties of Peppermint Essential Oil on the Skin
Conclusion: Peppermint essential oil is noted for its potent anti-inflammatory, wound healing, and anti-nociceptive properties.
Citation: Benefits and Properties of Peppermint Essential Oil on the Skin – Typology

Petitgrain- Citrus aurantium-var. amara  Rutaceae

Steam-distilled leaves and branches. Three key Constituents: linalyl acetate (46-70%), linalool (19-29%), and (+)-limonene (Lawrence 1995 g. p. 107-110). Paraguay: Linalyl acetate, linalool, and a-terpineol (Tisserand & Young pg. 374).

Cosmetic: acne, boils, oily or dry skin, aids perspiration, tissue regenerator for scars and boils. Purchon and Cantele, pg. 97, say it regulates sebum for oily skin and hair and is particularly good for dandruff and acne. It has antiperspirant and deodorizing qualities. It is antifungal for ringworm and candidiasis. It may be helpful as a skin cell regenerator for scars, furuncles, and rosacea.

Steam-distilled leaves and branches may irritate the skin. Cross-sensitivities with existing allergic reactions to balsams. Do not use if you are pregnant.

Pine Needle -Pinus sylvestris- Coniferae

Steam-distilled branches. Pine has historically been used for boils, cuts, sores and excessive perspiration. It is said to be good for grayish smokers’ skin. It is revitalizing in a bath. Do not take it internally. Please do not use it when pregnant, breastfeeding, with babies or pets. Skin sensitizer if oxidized and contraindicated with bronchial asthma and whooping cough. Blumenthal et. al 2000, pg. 305 Tisserand and Young.

Research:

Pine Needle Oil Uses, Benefits & Dosage
Conclusion: Pine needle oil exhibits antibacterial, antioxidant, antifungal, and wound-healing activities. These properties have been documented in both animal and in vitro studies.
Citation: Pine Needle Oil Uses, Benefits & Dosage – Drugs.com

Appraisal on the wound healing and anti-inflammatory activities of the essential oils obtained from the cones and needles of Pinus species by in vivo and in vitro experimental models
Conclusion: The essential oils from Pinus species demonstrated significant wound healing and anti-inflammatory activities in both in vivo and in vitro models.
Citation: Appraisal on the wound healing and anti-inflammatory activities of Pinus species – ResearchGate

Rose Absolute– Rosaceae
Rosa damascena or R. centifolia-

It is extracted from the petals with an alcohol solvent. The scent is beautiful. It is less conducive for skin use than rose otto due to the solvent extraction. It is used mainly in perfumery. Allergies or skin reactions might occur in those sensitive to this oil or the solvent or alcohol used. 2.5% maximum dermal use. Tisserand and Young pg. 407.

Rose Otto-Rosa damascena or R. centifolia Rosaceae

Steam distilled from the flowers. It may take about 70 whole flowers (or more) to make one drop of the oil. A few of the main components include citronellol, geraniol, and nonadecane. Rose Otto is used for dryness, aging and sensitive skin, redness, rosacea, wrinkles, couperose, eczema, and inflammations. It is astringent, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory. It may help clear tiny broken capillaries. Please do not use it in the first trimester of pregnancy. This essential oil has recently become almost unaffordable. It may be adulterated due to its high cost. Tisserand and Young have suggested a 0.6% dermal limit, which sounds very low to me, considering rose absolute, which is more likely to contain impurities due to being an absolute, has a higher dermal limit.

Research:

Therapeutic efficacy of rose oil: A comprehensive review of clinical evidence
Conclusion: Rose oil, extracted from the petals of Rosa damascena and R. centifolia, is known for its therapeutic properties, including skin healing, anti-inflammatory effects, and antimicrobial activities. It is beneficial for conditions such as eczema, acne, and wound healing.
Citation: Therapeutic efficacy of rose oil: A comprehensive review of clinical evidence – NCBI

An overview: Herbal cosmetics and cosmeceuticals
Conclusion: Rose Damascena and Rosa centifolia, both members of the Rosaceae family, are well-known for their essential oil, which is highly valued in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-aging, and healing properties.
Citation: An overview: Herbal cosmetics and cosmeceuticals – IJPCA

Rosemary– Rosmarinus officinalis- Lamiaceae

Steam-distilled flowering tops and leaves. 3 Key Constituents: Camphor, 1,8-cineole, Alpha-Pinene (Formacek and Kubeczka 1982; Boelens 1985; Burrell et al 1995; Chalchat et al 1993). Dilute and apply carrier oil -massage into varicose veins, cellulite, congestion, wounds, puffiness, swelling or edema.

Rosemary oil is additive and synergistic against pathogenic wound bacteria in combination with antibiotics. Sienkiewicz M et al, Burns 2017 43(2): 310-17.

Rosemary essential oil was compared with minoxidil (2%) in 100 patients with androgenetic alopecia for six months. Both showed improvement in hair count. Panahi Y et al, Skinmed 2015 13(1): 15-21.

Cantele and Purchon pg. 103 suggest it is helpful for acne, dermatitis, eczema, athlete’s foot, and scabies.

Add a drop to your shampoo for oily hair or dandruff. Dilute and spray onto the scalp to strengthen hair and, in some cases, promote hair growth.

Promotes hair growth (to some degree), making it useful for hair care products. It may increase blood pressure. It is possible to experience allergic responses on sensitive skin. Avoid it with high blood pressure, pregnancy, breastfeeding, young children, pets and epilepsy. It may be neurotoxic. Please don’t use near the face of youngsters—4.5% dermal limit.

Title: Chemical Composition and Antimicrobial Activity of Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) Essential Oil
Findings: This study examines the chemical composition of Rosemary essential oil and its antimicrobial properties. The oil demonstrated significant antimicrobial activity against various pathogens, making it suitable for use in skincare products to treat acne and other skin infections.
Citation: Galea, C., Cocoș, D.I., & Feier, R. (2023). Chemical composition and antimicrobial activity of Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) essential oil. Medicine and Materials. Read the full paper.

González-Minero et al, 2020. Rosemary: an ancient plant with uses in personal healthcare and cosmetics

Rosemary verbenone type– Rosemarinus officinalis chemotype verbenone- Lamiaceae

Steam-distilled flowering plants and leaves. 3 Key Constituents: Camphor, Verbenone, alpha-Pinene. (Solomon et al. 1994). Rosemary verbenone is historically used for mature, chronically dry, aged skin, acne and oily skin, and couperose or broken veins. It helps rejuvenate skin. Beneficial for dandruff and to promote healthy hair growth- Wildwood pg. 281. Insect repellent.

Please do not use it with infants, pets, or near infants’ faces during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Please do not use it with high blood pressure, hypersensitive liver, or hormone-dependent cancers. It can become toxic with heavy use. Dermal limit 6.5%.

Saint John’s Wort-
Hypericum perforatum- Hypericaceae

Unlike St. John’s wort carrier, this essential oil is steam distilled and made as an infused oil. This makes the essential oil of Saint John’s Wort much more concentrated. It is helpful for nerve pain and shingles.

Do not use if pregnant, with children, or internally. Phototoxic. Skin sensitizer if oxidized.

Sandalwood- Santalum album-

Steam distilled from the wood chips of the sandalwood tree. In India, Sandalwood is healing for all skin types- dry, acne, damaged, chapped, cracked, and inflamed. You can try it for eczema. It is antiseptic, moisturizing, penetrating the subcutaneous layer. Connective tissue and dermis are strengthened, as it may increase the water retention of collagen. It could be an effective chemotherapy agent in skin reactions. Tisserand and Young pg. 418. Please do not use it when pregnant. Rare but known adverse skin reactions. Maximum dermal use is 2%, according to Tisserand and Young. I have used it in higher doses without a problem.

Title: Sandalwood Oil Can Be a Miraculous Tackle on Skin Aging, Skin Appearance and Wrinkle Skin-A Review
Findings: This paper reviews the benefits of Sandalwood essential oil in skincare, particularly for aging skin. The oil’s moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties have been shown to improve skin appearance, reduce wrinkles, and combat skin aging.
Citation: Dulal, S.R., Taher, M.A., & Sheikh, H. (2019). Sandalwood Oil Can Be a Miraculous Tackle on Skin Aging, Skin Appearance and Wrinkle Skin-A Review. World Journal of Pharmaceutical Research. Read the full paper.

Title: Sandalwood Oil: Phytochemical and Pharmacological Updates
Findings: This article reviews the phytochemical composition and pharmacological properties of Sandalwood essential oil. It highlights the oil’s use in skincare and haircare products due to its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and moisturizing effects, making it beneficial for treating acne, dry skin, and scalp conditions.
Citation: Sindhu, R., & Arora, S. (2013). Sandalwood Oil: Phytochemical and Pharmacological Updates. Recent Progress in Medicinal Plants. Read the full article.

Spikenard- Nardostachys jatamansi- Valerianaceae

Steam-distilled rhizomes. It may have wound-healing ability. It is suitable for mature skin. Avoid in pregnancy, with infants, and during breastfeeding. Do not take it internally. It is becoming almost impossible to get, which is a shame, as it is a very unique essential oil.

Tagetes -Tagetes minuta- Compositae

Steam-distilled flowering plant. Sometimes called French Marigold, but this is different from Calendula. Three key Constituents are (Z)-B-ocimene, (Z)-Tagetenone, and Dihydrotagetone (Lawrence 1996e, pp. 64-68). Tisserand, p. 435.

It is helpful for corns, bunions, calluses, ringworms, and other fungal infections. Dilute and dab directly onto the area, but protect the surrounding skin. Please do not use it on sensitive skin. Do not use it if breastfeeding, pregnant, or with children and pets. Never take it internally, as it is quite a toxic essential oil. Phototoxic. Dermal usage 0.01%. Tagetes oil and absolute 8016-84-0 a) Leave-on products a) 0.01% safety level. Please do not use it before going into the sun. If you have a ragweed allergy, many plants from this family could be skin sensitizers or even cause histamine reactions.
https://www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/services/consumer-product-safety/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredient-hotlist-prohibited-restricted-ingredients/hotlist.html

Tangerine- Citrus reticulata- Rutaceae

Cold-pressed from the peel. It may smell slightly different than Mandarin, but the properties of the two oils are the same. Tangerine benefits oily, congested skin with acne, scars, pimples, and stretch marks. Skin sensitizer if oxidized. Dermal limit 30% Tisserand and Young.

Tea Tree- Melaleuca alternifolia- Myrtaceae

Steam distilled from branches. 3 Key Constituents: Terpinen-4-ol (30-48%), y-Terpinene, Alpha-Terpinene (Southwell 1997).

Tea tree essential oil may be helpful in abscesses, athlete’s foot, boils, burns, candida, chicken pox, cold sores, dandruff, fungal infections, herpes, rashes, warts, and ringworms. It is also antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, bactericidal, insect-repellent, and antifungal.

Tea tree is very effective for acne and oily skin. In shampoos, it is used to clean the scalp and address dandruff.

It may also help protect from radiation burns – afterward, use rose and lavender. Tea tree oil shows superior inhibition of gram-negative bacteria, while lemongrass is more active against gram-positive organisms. Warnke PH et al, J Craniomaxillofac Surg 2013 41(4): 321-6.

Possible skin irritant. Sensitizing in some people. Can develop a dermal irritation. Do not use undiluted. Please do not use it with babies, pets, or while breastfeeding. Do not take it internally. Avoid oxidization by storing it in a dark, airtight container in the refrigerator, as it is much more sensitizing when oxidized. Toxic in high quantities. Tisserand and Young, pg. 441, “Maximum dermal level, 15%.”

Title: Antimicrobial, antioxidant and acaricidal properties of tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia)
Findings: This study explores the antimicrobial, antioxidant, and acaricidal properties of tea tree essential oil. It highlights the oil’s effectiveness in treating skin infections, promoting hair health by reducing dandruff and improving scalp conditions, and its potential use in cosmetic products for its antimicrobial properties.
Citation: Puvača, N., Čabarkapa, I., Bursić, V., & Stojanović, D. (2018). Antimicrobial, antioxidant and acaricidal properties of tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia). Journal of Biopharmaceuticals. Read the full paper.

Title: Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia (Maiden & Betche) Cheel) Oil: An Important Medicinal Essential Oil
Findings: This paper investigates the medicinal properties of tea tree oil, emphasizing its use in cosmetics for its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. The study discusses the oil’s application in treating acne and oily skin and as a component in hair care products to reduce dandruff and improve scalp health.
Citation: Parviz, G., Kosar, M., & Demirci, F. (2022). Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia (Maiden & Betche) Cheel) Oil: An Important Medicinal Essential Oil. EMU Journal of Pharmaceutical. Read the full paper.

Thuja Eastern- Thuja occidentalis- Coniferae

Steam distilled from leaves and branches is said to be soothing to poison ivy. Put directly on viral warts to deter. It is very toxic if taken internally. Convulsive. Never use it when breastfeeding, pregnant or around children or pets. Please use only with extreme caution—maximum dermal limit 0.4%.

Thyme- Thymus vulgaris chemotype linalool- Lamiaceae

Steam distilled from leaves. Three key Constituents: thymol, p-cymene, and Carvacrol (Lawrence, 1995c. p. 67, 1998a. p. 42-46). It may help heal abscesses, insect bites, psoriasis, acne, and dry and weeping eczema. Although it is a potent antiseptic, it is still gentle and healing to the skin. It is also broadly antimicrobial. Avoid it during breastfeeding and pregnancy with infants and pets. Do not take it internally. It may interfere with medications if taken orally.

Thyme Essential Oil: A review noted this oil’s anti-inflammatory and anti-nociceptive properties. These findings support the potential use of thyme oil in formulations aimed at reducing skin inflammation and pain.

Thyme Red- Thymus vulgaris- Lamiaceae

Red Thyme Video-Click on it to Play

Caution: Red thyme is aggressive on the skin. Please don’t take It internally. Avoid it during pregnancy and while breastfeeding. Keep It away from children and pets!

Turmeric– Curcuma longa  Steam distilled rhizome- Zingiberaceae

It is thought to be antioxidant and anti-inflammatory. Please do not use it internally, when pregnant or with children. If taken orally, it can interfere with medications.

Vetiver- Vetiveria zizanioides- Graminae

Steam distilled from the root. 3 Key Constituents: Zetiverol (45-70%), Zizanol, Vetinenol, Cyclocopacamphan-12ol (epimer A)(Champagnat et al 2006) Tisserand pg. 466.
It is beneficial for mature, dry skin and wounds. Wildwood, pg. 285 also recommends it for acne. It may be a cellular regenerator that works on atrophic or slack skin, which is used as a base note in scent blends. Vetiver increases the entire venous vessel system to increase blood supply and detox connective tissue. Sheppard-Hanger pg. 423

Its antiseptic qualities help to heal acne, cuts and infected wounds, Purchon and Cantele, pg. 115

It promotes the regeneration of tissues and aids in the healing of scars and marks​ (Organic Facts). https://www.organicfacts.net/health-benefits/essential-oils/health-benefits-of-vetiver-essential-oil.html

Do not use it when pregnant, with children, or internally—rare dermatitis in some people—maximum dermal limit 15%.

Yarrow– Achillea millefolium- Compositae

Steam distilled from the aerial parts. 3 Key Constituents: Sabine, Chamazulene, beta-Myrcene Tisserand p. 475 (Rondeau). The blue in the yarrow is chamazulene, which is terrific for the skin.

It is said to be anti-inflammatory and antiseptic. Yarrow is helpful for acne, burns, sunburn, inflammation,

eczema, warts, varicose veins and scars. It is effective against rashes, ulcers, and wounds. You may add a few drops to a spray bottle with water and spray it onto the skin, or mix it with rosehip seed carrier oil and dab on. Cantele and Purchon p. 116 suggest combining it with aloe vera gel to help heal wounds.

Yarrow may also protect the skin from radiation burns. Sheppard-Hanger pg. 93

It makes a splendid aftershave if you like the scent. Yarrow encourages perspiration and balances oily skin.

Add to shampoo to promote hair growth. It helps to balance an oily scalp.

Yarrow has anti-wrinkle properties. A study has shown that yarrow essential oil may be as effective as many commercial anti-wrinkle remedies. It promotes hair growth.

Avoid it during pregnancy, breastfeeding, and with babies, children, and pets. No internal use may interact with drugs if taken orally. Green yarrow may be an abortifacient. Tisserand pg. 476 May cause skin reactions in those with “weed” dermatitis. Sheppard-Hanger pg. 93
Maximum dermal use 8.6% Tisserand and Young pg. 476.

Title: 8 Powerful Yarrow Oil Benefits for Skin, Hair, and Nails
Findings: This article highlights the benefits of Yarrow essential oil for skin, hair, and nails. It explains how terpene-rich compounds in Yarrow oil can inhibit bacterial growth, making it an excellent addition to skincare cleansers, hair tonics, and body lotions. The oil’s astringent and anti-inflammatory properties help balance oily skin, reduce acne, and soothe irritated skin. It also promotes hair health by reducing dandruff and enhancing scalp health.
Citation: Wholesale Botanics. (2024, January 8). 8 Powerful Yarrow Oil Benefits for Skin, Hair, and Nails. Read the full article.

Ylang Ylang– Cananga odorata- Annonaceae

Steam distilled from the flowers. Ylang 1 and Ylang 3 are different.

distillations of the same oil. Ylang 1 is slightly superior in smell and qualities, but both are adequate. Its main constituents are germacrene, trans-caryophyllene, trans-farnesene. Used on dry, oily, combination skin, anti-aging and insect bites. Balances sebum.  A little can be useful in massage blends; many find it soothing and relaxing. Excess may lead to a headache. It may cause a skin reaction and be a sensitizer. Please do not use it on diseased, damaged, or inflamed skin. Do not use if pregnant, breastfeeding, or with children or pets. Maximum dermal use is 0.8%. I just wanted to let you know that there’s no internal use.

Title: Traditional Uses, Phytochemistry, and Bioactivities of Cananga odorata (Ylang-Ylang)
Findings: This study reviews the traditional uses, phytochemistry, and bioactivities of Ylang Ylang essential oil. It highlights the oil’s benefits in cosmetic applications, including its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, which are useful in skincare and haircare products to treat acne, soothe irritated skin, and promote scalp health.
Citation: Tan, L.T.H., Lee, L.H., Yin, W.F., Chan, C.K., Abdul Kadir, H., & Chan, K.G. (2015). Traditional Uses, Phytochemistry, and Bioactivities of Cananga odorata (Ylang-Ylang). Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine. Read the full paper.

A Few Extra Studies on Essential Oils and Skin-

Cinnamon and Clove Essential Oils: These essential oils, incorporated into nanogels, were studied for their anti-inflammatory and anti-nociceptive effects on human skin. The study showed significant results in reducing inflammation and pain sensation, which could be beneficial for topical treatments​ (BioMed Central). https://bmccomplementmedtherapies.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/s12906-022-03619-9

Citral-Based Essential Oil (EOCC): This study examined the anti-inflammatory effects of EOCC on human skin. Significant improvements were found in skin firmness, elasticity, and water balance, indicating its potential protective capacity against skin inflammation​ https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/10/1/29

Multiple Essential Oils Review: A comprehensive review covering various essential oils noted their widespread benefits, including antibacterial, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, and anticancer properties. This general acknowledgment suggests broad therapeutic potentials for essential oils in skincare and health​ (MDPI)​. https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/28/9/3771

Student Project- Skye Fibke, A Video Was Made From Skye’s Article
What I love About Essential Oils for Skin Care

References:

Sheppard-Hanger The Aromatherapy Practitioner Reference Manual, Martin Watt, Tisserand Robert and Rodney Young- Essential Oil Safety

Check the Course Bibliography for a list of the author’s knowledge gleaned from these writings.

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